Dan Telfer: When the AV Club travels, we always make time to visit pop culture landmarks. If something memorable happened in the world of film, TV, books, or music we want to go there. We’re not just tourists, we’re Pop Pilgrims. On this episode of Pop Pilgrims we visit the cemetery from Dennis Hoppers and of the hippy era classic “Easy Rider.” The gorgeous haunted grounds hosted an iconic scene in which Hopper, along with Peter Fonda and a couple of prostitutes drop acid and get weird. What do you think made them choose this cemetery? Mike Scott: Well if you look at it it's a unique cemetery. This is not your normal cemetery but this is what cemeteries look like in New Orleans. And really, when you look at what Dennis Hopper was trying to do with the movie, the symbolism there is glaring – it's really sort of a eulogy for the ‘60s and for all the lost optimism. And so here they sort of eulogize their trip, their friend, and the ‘60s at the same time. Dan Telfer: In that scene they got naked and were climbing all over the place. How do you think that was perceived by New Orleans at the time? Mike Scott: Well I can tell you – when they came into town, when they shot in town, it was really – it was just like the rest of the shoot – it was sort of a fly-by-the-seat-of-your-pants aesthetic. They didn’t have a script as much as they just had an outline so there was no dialogue. Then they came here and shot here – people were a little horrified to see what was going on here in the cemetery – this is a Catholic-owned and Catholic-run cemetery and so after that, as I understand it, no feature films have been allowed to shoot here. Hopper, he’s a wild man but he was on to something here, the way he would motivate his actors. He asked peter Fonda to imagine a conversation with his deceased mother who committed suicide when Fonda was a boy. Dan Telfer: In “Easy Rider” during the scene that’s filmed here there’s lots of stutter cuts, a lot of visual editing but there’s also a lot of ambient noise. Was that real or – Mike Scott: Yeah, there was construction going on. There’s an elevated overpass that runs right outside the cemetery here and it was being built at the time. And there were pile drivers going hammering in at the pilings for the overpass and so I guess Hopper just recognized it and worked it all into it. Dan Telfer: Has people’s perception of “Easy Rider” changed in New Orleans since it originally came out? Mike Scott: Yeah. In New Orleans there’s a distinct and deep running pride in the city and what the city means and I think the people now sort of understand what Hopper was doing and they don’t take affront really at the use of the cemetery the way they originally did and they see the movie for what it was. End.

New Orleans: St. Louis Cemetery - Set of Easy Rider's acid freak-out

Derived from Greek, the word “necropolis” means “city of the dead,” and few places make the word seem appropriate quite like New Orleans’ above-ground cemeteries. The city’s position in relation to sea level makes it hard to bury the dead, making these types of cemeteries necessary. And, as often happens, necessity gave rise to art. St. Louis Cemetery #1 is the city’s oldest burial spot. It’s lined with monuments that date back centuries, and which exist in various stages of upkeep, from the brand new and well-preserved to graves crumbling into deep disrepair. The tight quarters, disorienting passageways, and intricate, sometimes eerie, religious sculptures give it an atmosphere unlike any other place on Earth.

It’s easy to see why Dennis Hopper, Peter Fonda, and the rest of the team behind Easy Rider would choose it for the film’s acid freak-out sequence. Yet, removed from the rapid editing, distressing industrial noise, and hallucinatory muttering, the place has an eerily peaceful quality. A steady stream of tourists come and go throughout the day, but the cemetery’s walls and looming monuments otherwise largely isolate it from the sounds of the city around it. 

The necropolis also has its celebrities. These include Homer Plessy, of the Plessy v. Ferguson Supreme Court decision that changed the course of civil rights legislation, Etienne de Boré, New Orleans’ first mayor, and Ernest “Dutch” Morial, the city’s first black mayor. But the most-visited grave belongs to Marie Laveau, a reputed voodoo priestess sometimes called the “witch queen of New Orleans.” Even though it’s not entirely clear if she’s buried here, Laveau receives daily offerings from those seeking her favor. Gifts include cigarettes, coins, candles, Mardi Gras beads, and alcohol, and the truly determined scratch three “X”s on the side. (The cemetery does not encourage this practice.)

It’s a heavily populated city too, with an estimated 100,000 buried in the space of one block. In fact, in many respects, it’s less a city than a suburb of the busy town nearby, one to which a fair number of New Orleans’ residents have moved over the centuries.


Seasons: 1 / 2

Total Episodes: 33