Dan Telfer: When the AV Club travels, we always make time to visit pop culture landmarks. If something memorable happened in the world of film, TV, books, or music we want to go there. We’re not just tourists, we’re Pop Pilgrims. Today we’re visiting locations from “Treme,” David Simon’s excellent HBO drama about the historic music-filled New Orleans neighborhood. Simon, who’s best known for creating “The Wire” brought his same attention to detail and pop culture activism to “Treme.” Dave Walked: David Simon, one of the co-creators of “Treme” talked about you can't really go into a bar anywhere in the world where they won't have some African-American music on the jukebox. And he makes the point that that came from -- even if it's Michael Jackson -- that came from a few square blocks in this neighborhood where we’re standing right now. Calling the show “Treme,” the metaphorical power of the title, is a way to acknowledge that and a way to show how that culture is still alive on the street every day. Dan Telfer: We’re in front of the Saint Augustine Church. Now this is in a few establishing shots from the show “Treme” right? Dave Walker: It is, you can see it in the background of the very first second line in the premier episode. It's used as atmosphere and as a way to set the action in the streets of the actual “Treme.” A couple of different episodes the Backstreet Cultural Museum – this is a museum that’s sort of dedicated to the second line in Mardi Gras Indian culture on Mardi Gras Day. this is a great place to come and see a bunch of the different Indian gangs. The orange building there used to be the home of WWOZ which is the radio station that’s featured in the show. Dave was the DJ there. WWOZ has relocated since the storm down near the French market. It's really one of the sad post-Katrina circumstances that this park is in such disrepair and I don’t know if there’s any immediate hope that it's going to get better. Dan Telfer: We’re walking down St. Claude. This street’s referenced in one of the great Mardi gras anthems “Go to the Mardi Gras.” What do you think is different about the way “Treme” tried to capture New Orleans compared to other films? Dave Walker: Well there have been a lot of attempts to set screen depictions in New Orleans and I think what “Treme” achieves better than any of the others that have come before it is that it's not a collection of establishing shots of Bourbon Street. By calling the show “Treme” the show intends to talk about this neighborhood’s role in the larger export of New Orleans’ culture to the world. End.

New Orleans: We visit locations from David "The Wire" Simon's jazz-heavy HBO series Treme

Really the only proper pop pilgrimage for Treme would be to move there. Creators David Simon and Eric Overmeyer seem intent on showcasing every corner of the Crescent City, from its most famous restaurants to the tiniest venue where anyone could play a trumpet before an appreciative crowd. For this installment we decided to visit the neighborhood that lent its name to the show: Treme. As Dave Walker points out above, the name Treme only seems like a misnomer, given that only a portion of the series takes place in that neighborhood. Because so much New Orleans music has its roots in Tremé, and because so much of the city’s identity is tied to the music, it’s as apt a title as anyone could dream up.

Walker joined us for a walking tour of the neighborhood starting at St. Augustine’s church, a place with a long, interesting history. It was founded in 1841 by free people of color, making it the oldest primarily black Catholic church in America. Its founders insured it would be welcoming to slaves by purchasing pews for them, a move that upset white parishioners. One of its most famous congregants, Homer Plessy, would go on to play a major role in the history of civil rights as part of the Plessy Vs. Ferguson Supreme Court decision. (He’s buried in the nearby St. Louis Cemetery #1, subject of another Pop Pilgrims installment.) Others include jazz giant Sidney Bechet and Tootie Montana, a famous Mardi Gras Indian Chief.

More recently, it’s served as a symbol of neighborhood resilience. In the aftermath of Katrina, it played an important role in rebuilding the neighborhood. Nonetheless the Archdiocese Of New Orleans ordered St. Augustine’s closed in 2006, announcing it would be merged with another parish. The announcement sparked a nine-day sit-in and, eventually, a reversal of that decision. A show about recovery and community couldn’t ask for a better backdrop.


Seasons: 1 / 2

Total Episodes: 33