Beer Primer Barleywine

Here’s a simple beer law: Malted barley, when dark from roasting, results in really dark beer that’s also pretty boozy. But substitute a lighter malt and more hops and the result is Barleywine, a style crafted by the British about a century ago. These are strong beers that have fruit-like flavors and often age well with alcohol levels around 10 percent, just like wine. They’re generally much lighter in color than stouts and can look like red ales in the glass.

California’s Lagunitas Brewing Co. is a good starter brand for barleywines. Its 2006 vintage of the Gnarleywine CQ snagged awards at a San Francisco barleywine earlier this year, and, fortunately, this year’s vintage is on shelves all around Chicago.

The alcohol is noticeable but not overwhelming, and its nose emits scents of apple, citrus, and allspice that stick with you while you sip. As you drink more, the caramel and toffee are the strongest flavors, but the hops keep it from being too sweet. Pine and citrus notes from the hops also come through after awhile. If it’s too strong for you, let it stand: The flavors grow subtler as the glass warms. This is another one to put into the back of your closet for a few years and enjoy later.