Bloomy
Decider's guide to Midwestern cheese
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More Cheese Primer
Now that there is something of a fromage foundation laid, it's time to delve a little deeper into the various cheese styles touched on last round.
Bloomy cheeses are those enticing selections covered with a pillowy (a.k.a. blooming) layer of white mold. That fuzzy rind occurs when a cheesemaker coats the cheese with Penicillium candidum (a close relative of penicillin). While the concept of eating something covered in penicillin may be off-putting, remember that these cheeses have wonderfully delicate, yet complex flavors and aromas to offer.
First off, definitely eat the rind of bloomy cheeses. This is strategically placed, edible mold—not the result of a neglected refrigerator drawer—that breaks down amino acids from the outside-in, creating a softer, creamier, more buttery texture over time. The interior (or paste) of the cheese can hit the palate in all kinds of different ways—flavors can range anywhere from decadent and buttery to earthy, musty, sometimes mushroom-y. Cow's milk bries and camemberts fall into this category, but cheesemakers also use young, pasteurized goat's milk to add more tangy notes to the cheese.
For an ideal example look no further than Ann Arbor, Mich., and the creamery section of the vaunted Zingerman's empire (which ships all over the country). John Loomis heads up the cheesemaking efforts and has a serious commitment to supporting Michigan's small, independent dairy farmers. He turns local cow and goat milk into a variety of different cheeses—notably the Detroit Street Brick, pictured above. This is a bloomy-rind, lemony pasteurized goat cheese, studded with fresh green peppercorns, then shaped into a one-pound brick. Since the surface mold ripens this cheese from the outside inward, the paste will become more runny as time goes on, which sharpens the pepper flavors as well. Cut a thin slice off the brick and lay it over some bread, or take Zingerman's advice and use it as a burger topper.
Where to find it: Zingerman's Deli: store or mail-order, Pastoral
Try it with: Bright, grassy white wines (the Spanish varietal Rueda is ideal) play really nicely with the tangy, sometimes earthy notes of the cheese; Wheat Ales or Belgian Wit Ales (Three Floyds Gumballhead or Allagash White will do the trick) have the same citrusy characteristics of the cheese, and the carbonation here will also cleanse the palate of the buttery texture.
Andy Jenkins is a cheesemonger at Marion Street Cheese Market, which also carries Detroit Street Brick.
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