Beer Primer Extra Special Bitters

Bless the Brits for naming a beer the opposite of what it actually is. Extra Special Bitters, or ESBs, are a type of pale ale made with a goodly dose of hops. Those following along at home should expect the beer to be pretty bitter, like an Indian Pale Ale, right? Not so much. ESBs have more malt than an IPA, and since malt is sweeter, the bitterness and sweetness balance each other out. They tend to go down smooth—the hoppiness is there, but not so much that you're blasted with ridiculous bitterness, as the name might imply. Nor is there a Strong Ale-like overwhelming orange zestiness, as you'd find in some of The A.V. Club's more recent Beer Primer picks.

The "extra special" in the name isn't window dressing: It refers more to the alcohol content than anything else, which is in the 6-percent range, higher than most bitter beers.

Fuller’s ESB, one of the best-known extra special bitters from across the pond, is smooth all the way around. The taste is pronounced but not overwhelming, and its lighter body means it's easier than last week’s strong ale to enjoy several in a row. It starts out on the sweet side, with a classic floral hop aroma and creamy caramel at the front of the mouth. Then the hop bitterness sets in, offset by the malt. There are a host of subtle flavors in-between that might shine through if you try to pick them out—apple and toffee on the nose, honey and citrus on the aftertaste—but if that's too much work, just sit back and enjoy.

Find it at: Bar on Buena
Try it with: Fuller’s soaked hangar steak. Yup, steak marinated in Fuller’s porter, served with onions caramelized in beer. You can’t go wrong with beer three ways. It's like a full meal of beer.