First impressions: Rick Bayless' XOCO
The Gunthorp chicken torta
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Rick Bayless, of Topolobampo, Frontera Grill, Top Chef Masters, and speckled-beard fame, opened XOCO today next to Frontera at 449 N. Clark St. It's an accessible take on Mexican street food: tortas, or grilled/baked sandwiches; rich soups, or caldos, served after 3 p.m. with carnitas, woodland mushrooms, or catfish; house-made chocolate used for chili-spiked hot cocoa and an assortment of desserts; and an array of breakfast items like poblano-scrambled egg empanadas. It all sounds delicious, so of course The A.V. Club made a break for it when someone reported to @WaitWatcher that the line was short.
Rick Bayless, center, presides over his new kitchen.The space: The line forms along the window, affording diners a glimpse into the open kitchen. Bayless was on hand today, a calm, methodical presence doing everything from dropping sandwiches into the wood-burning oven to wiping stray salad dressing from the edges of the bowls. Order to the right; dine to the left in a mustard-colored dining area dotted with black-and-white photos of people Bayless has likely seen on his travels. With the abundance of hanging lamps, it looks a hell of a lot like the interior of a Starbucks.
The service: The line moved surprisingly quickly—from the door, it only took about 15 minutes to place orders—and the staff was patient with everyone's questions about how spicy the food would be. (You can order anything mild, medium, or hot.)
The A.V. Club's food: The ahogada torta (pork carnitas with arbol chile sauce and pickled onions, submerged in a zippy tomato broth) was incredibly delicious. Although the meat was scarce and a little dry, the fiery broth contributed the perfect amount of moisture to soften the crunchy bread without making it soggy. The abundance of onions quelled the savory pork with a touch of sweetness. The pepito torta was, as one A.V. Clubber joked, "The Mexican Philly chese steak." Loaded with braised Tallgrass shortribs and artisan Jack cheese, the torta's gooeyness was offset nicely by the pickled jalapeños' unexpected bite. The sandwich got spicier with every bite, leading to a nice, satisfying finish. The Gunthorp chicken (wood-roasted red chile chicken, caramelized onion, black beans, avocado, and tomatillo salsa) the first item listed in XOCO's tortas menu, was fantastic, zesty and filling but not overpowering.
Drink-wise, stick with the Aztec, a Bayless-style house made hot chocolate with a dash of spice—but let it cool so the chili's more absorbed into the smooth liquid. The Barcelona is thick, rich, and far more effective than any energy drink on the market. Also check out the house-made limonata (limeade) and iced tea. As of this writing, an hour after eating, our hearts are still beating quicker than a hummingbird's.
The verdict: It's dangerous how close this spot is to The A.V. Club office. Finally, a quick Mexican lunch bite, done right.
