Madeleines: The pretentious cookie

No one can dispute the French’s prowess with pastries, but their devotion to baked goods can damn near border on obsession. Of that obsession, though, the pinnacle is perhaps the madeleine: a traditional French shell-shaped, bite-sized cake. French author Marcel Proust apparently liked these cookies so much his narrator in Remembrance Of Things Past has a near-spiritual awakening upon devouring a single nibble. And with good reason—it’s nearly the ultimate dessert: one part cake, one part cookie, and all parts delicious, sugary goodness. The A.V. Club sampled some varieties around town.

THE FRESH

Tiny Cakes
Price: $2.25 for four. Does it nail the basics?: Totally. The texture is soft with a bit of crunch on the outside, with a strong flavor of eggs and butter. No preservatives here, just tasty, perishable goodness. Plus, at 50 cents a cookie, they’re a fancy, gift-able option. Proust would approve. Extra interest: Tiny Cakes uses lemon zest in its recipe, giving the flavor and texture a nice subtle kick. This bakery also sells its treats at the Logan Square Farmer’s Market, so buying dessert can help the local economy. (tinycakes.com and Provenance, 2528 N. California Ave.)

Trotter’s To Go
Price: $3.95 for three. Does it nail the basics?: Not quite. Even warm from the oven, this madeleine is noticeably dry. It doesn’t help that service here is insufferably snobby, or that the store’s huge windows provide a direct view of the parking lot. Extra interest: This coconut-flavored variety just doesn’t taste fresh. Dried coconut flakes and coconut extract gave this cookie a powerful, unpleasant aftertaste. (1337 W. Fullerton Ave.)

THE PACKAGED

Mireille faucher madeleines a la vanille (at Provenance)
Price: $7.25 for six. Does it nail the basics?: The French should get this right, but nothing about this cookie is kosher. It’s dense and dry, too large, and the vanilla imparts a fake, marshmallow-like taste. The ingredients list includes yeast, and a proper patisserie chef should know better. Extra interest: Super-shiny and dark brown on the outside, they sure look pretty.

Starbucks
Price: $1.95 for three. Does it nail the basics?: Partially. The extra helping of eggs (four for every stick of butter) is what makes a madeleine what it is; Starbucks’ cookie tastes like any old poundcake recipe slapped into a scallop-shaped mold. But it’s not too sweet, and the texture is soft without being too crumbly, making this a good cookie for dunking. Too bad they’re so high in fat. Extra interest: Starbucks has been selling these three-packs for years. Why haven’t they caught on big yet? If Josh Groban CDs can be successfully hawked, surely these cookies have a chance.