You want enlightenment with that?
Some Chicago restaurants have more than food on their minds
Emily Withrow
The staff at Alice And Friends consider eating meat worse than stealing or lying.
No related
Many of Chicago’s restaurants take the whole you-are-what-you-eat thing to heart. Or to spirit. Or as a reflection of spiritual devotion. Just check out some of the city’s popular (vegetarian) restaurants run by disciples of various causes and beliefs. The A.V. Club set out to some of these spiritual haunts and learned that, no matter where it comes from or who’s profiting from it, the food’s damn good.
Alice And Friends
Whom they worship: Simply put, God. The people who work here, from the servers to the owners, are followers of The Quan Yin Method of meditation, led by Supreme Master Ching Hai (godsdirectcontact.org). Once married to a German scientist whom she left to pursue her spiritual side, the Supreme Master is loosely affiliated with Buddhism but will “initiate” people from any background, religious or not. Through her special brand of meditation, followers get in touch with God. They can also get in touch with Ching Hai via her satellite station, Supreme Master TV, broadcasting godly meditation 24/7, including on a set in Alice’s smaller dining room. What they eat: Consuming meat, fish, or eggs tops the list of transgressions for followers of The Quan Yin Method—above stealing, lying, and promiscuous sex. This makes for exclusively lacto-vegetarian dishes. Most of the recipes rely on meat substitutes, such as seitan and tempeh, and the menu is largely Asian. (The chef is Korean.)
Soul Vegetarian East
Whom they worship: God, the Old Testament version. The African Hebrew Israelites of Jerusalem (kingdomofyah.com) run the Soul Vegetarian restaurants, which are scattered across the country. Former Chicagoan and steel worker Ben Carter founded the group when the archangel Gabriel appeared to him and told him African-Americans were descendants of the lost Tribe of Judah (expelled from Israel in 70 C.E.). So Carter changed his name to Ben Ammi Ben-Israel, moved to Israel, and started up a new brand o’ Judaism. His roughly 2,000 followers are both polygamous and vegan. What they eat: The Hebrew Israelites associate godliness with vegetarianism, combining it with the soulfulness of Southern cooking: It’s the Divine Diet. Some dishes rely on meat substitutes, such as the Salisbury “steak” dinner, but many simply focus on the great taste of veggies.
Victory’s Banner
Whom they worship: Victory’s philosophy is linked to Indian spiritual master Sri Chinmoy. The Master teaches that, through one’s inner cry, disciples can experience divine consciousness. It’s about oneness with God, who is “the Inner Pilot of our lifeboat.” Aye aye, skipper. According to the restaurant’s website, the place reflects the joy that Chinmoy has brought to his followers, who included, at one point, Carlos Santana. Some ex-followers have alleged he brought, uh, sexual “joy” into their lives, relieving them from time to time of their vows of celibacy. What they eat: Still hungry? Good. The vegetarian—of course—food at Victory’s Banner is worth the trip. It serves up some of the most popular brunch in the city, with treats like apple-walnut pancakes, French toast, and an omelet made with pesto and goat cheese. Mmm.
Amitabul
Whom they worship: There’s not actually a “who” involved. Chef David Choi infuses his cooking with his Buddhist beliefs, using “zen meditation” while prepping ingredients and food. He says that making a dish with good vibrations brings out its nurturing advantages, actually improving it for the customers’ consumption. As he cooks, he wishes a healthier, more jubilant life for the diner. It supposedly makes the food taste better—and vegan food needs all the help it can get. What they eat: Korean vegan food, which is difficult because Korean cuisine relies heavily on meat. The menu takes the spiritual motif to heart, offering dishes like “Buddha’s 3 Luck,” which promises the sweet and minty flavors of sesame leaf and maple sauce mixed with a brown rice cake and mystic Asian veggies.