Around the world in one dish at Tag
It doesn’t take long to be utterly charmed by Tag (1441 Larimer St., 303-996-9985). Maybe it’s the painting of an inelegant bulldog that hangs over the bar. Perhaps it’s the gracious servers or the intimate booths lining the long, narrow space. Really, it’s all of that, combined with Marvin Gaye, Morrissey, and The Walkmen on the sound system.
The charm goes a long way.
Normally, chef Troy Guard’s menu of so-called “continental social food” would induce serious eye-rolling: European, Asian, and North American influences all (usually) combined into one dish. The whole global-fusion thing can seem played out, but Tag manages to make it fresh, playful, and appealing. That bulldog painting works wonders.
Lunch is a fine time to get a feel for Tag’s cheery alchemy. The menu is a mini version of the seasonal dinner offerings, with a couple of sandwiches rounding out the board. But what to try? It’s all good and weird, from seared hiramasa with Pop Rocks to meatloaf made with sushi rice.
The tandoori-chicken tacos sound suitably Frankensteinish, topped with cucumber slaw, spiced yogurt, and a mint-tomato relish. It’s not a cheap meal—about $14 with iced tea and tax—but the plate is piled high with meat and toppings. The cucumbers and yogurt combine to create a Greek flavor, like a tzatziki sauce; it’s an unexpected multicultural layer to this Mexican taco with Indian chicken. Think Up With People, but in your mouth.
The tortillas, by the way, are much better than a tandoori-chicken taco deserves. They’re richer, softer, and taste fresher than the ones at some Mexican restaurants. If there’s one thing wrong with the tandoori-chicken tacos, it’s that the chicken isn’t “tandoori” enough. There’s a strong ginger flaver, and the meat is moist, but it’s largely obscured by everything else around it.
And that’s what happens at friendly little Tag: What at first comes off as a little pretentious and possibly lame becomes a fantastic freakin’ idea. You wanna get nuts? Let’s get nuts. And bring a basket of Tag’s duck-fat french fries while you’re at it.
