Doggin' it at Snarf's
At Snarf’s (multiple locations), the temptation to, well, snarf is everywhere. The Boulder-based toasted-sandwich chain—which recently opened its first Denver location at 1001 E. 11th Ave.—has a menu to please almost any palate, from meaty Italian subs to vegetarian-friendly portobello picks.
There is one item that stands out among the familiar turkey-and-swiss options, though, and that’s the hot dog sandwich, topped with American cheese and bacon. Each ingredient is great on its own—even rubbery American cheese has its charms—but the combination of the three sounds simultaneously revolting and devilishly seductive. Plus slopping it all on a slice of bread and not on a pillowy bun? That’s positively ghastly—and yet, so captivating.
Some order the hot dog sandwich with Snarf’s full arsenal of toppings, a fistful of flavor that includes mayo, mustard, tomato, onion, hot peppers, oil, and seasonings. Others, as recommended by the Snarf’s staff, simply go for onions, mayonnaise, mustard, and ketchup.
Now, some of us have been raised (by Chicagoans, ahem) to believe that, unless you’re under the age of 12, ketchup should never, ever be applied to a hot dog. And though we’re talking about a hot dog sandwich, already a mutant bastard, the possibility of ketchup even touching the dog feels like an abomination. So, for us, the devil’s condiment stays off, and the other suggested toppings (onion, mayo, and mustard) go on.
And somehow, as gross as it sounds, it all works. Magnificently. As always at Snarf’s, the most valuable player is the warm, crusty bread. The hot dog is a quality one, more akin to kielbasa than a limp Oscar Mayer link. Obviously, bacon only helps, and the melted cheese adds just a sinful little tang instead of being drippy and obnoxious; the other condiments make each bite a shade different from the last. The happy result is a satisfying bellyful of meat and cheese, and a new appreciation for the hot dog's winsome ways.
