The hidden pleasures of Pete’s Café And Steakhouse
Pete’s Café And Steakhouse (514 E. Colfax Ave., 303-832-7854) is mysterious. Easy to miss and outwardly nondescript, Pete’s offers secret treasures to those who happen upon it.
The first thing to know about Pete’s Café is that it is not affiliated with the Pete Contos empire of restaurants—Pete’s Kitchen, Pete’s Greektown, and so on. Nope, this is a different Pete. According to the menu, this Pete opened Pete’s Café in 1972 after a move from Boulder to Denver.
The second thing to know is that this is a family establishment, a place of simple comforts. The menu is concise and pleasantly predictable, filled with traditional American diner chow like BLTs and breakfast platters. Accordingly, the dining room itself is sparsely decorated and utilitarian. Fussy eaters will be dismayed, though the friendly staff seems likely to accommodate almost any reasonable request.
Armed with this knowledge, it’s time to find the place. Once you know where to look, you can’t miss it, but Colfax isn’t always the place to slow down and peer at the storefronts. The Pete’s Café sign, adorned with red flames licking the top edge, blends almost seamlessly into the signage for the neighboring Mexican restaurant (the excellent La Abeja). Pete’s is just one door among many on the busy, slightly seedy block.
Inside, the space is small. The open kitchen is to the left of the entrance, offering a glimpse of what the cook’s got going at the moment. Menus are already on the table—picture what you like to eat at a Denver diner, and chances are Pete’s has it listed. Order the breakfast burrito, and the server will ask if it’s okay that the burrito is smothered (but of course) and warn that the green chili is spicy (bring it on).
While waiting, take a look around at your fellow customers. Pete’s is the sort of place elderly gentlemen frequent for endless cups of coffee and quiet reading time. One of these guys probably looks a little down on his luck. Big deal. His money’s as good as anyone’s in this little corner of Colfax.
The décor is basic—plump chef statuettes, oversize flatware, and mounted horns from various animals. A small Catholic corner features prints of a Madonna and Christ Child, big J.C. himself, and an image of Jesus during his pre-crucifixion prayer session in the Garden Of Gethsemane.
Food arrives quickly, steaming hot from the griddle. The breakfast burrito gives the one at another Pete’s a run for its money. Hiding under a thick covering of green chili and cheese, the burrito looks like a hidden land mass. A loose pile of fried potatoes cozies up to the burrito, nearly invisible under the swamp of chili and cheese. The burrito itself is rudimentary—just eggs and your choice of meat—but gets the job done. It’s nice to be able to calibrate your ratio of proteins to potatoes, too. The green chili gives the tongue a sharp swipe, for sure, with more cumin flavor than most local greens.
After a meal at Pete’s, one feels sustained. As you step out into the downtown sun, ready once again to live vigorously, Pete’s seems to fade into the background. Next time you need it, you’ll find it.
