The JCB (and not a damn thing else) at My Brother’s Bar
My Brother’s Bar (2376 15th St., 303-455-9991) is one of the greatest places in all of Denver. That is an indisputable fact. People can complain that it’s too crowded or that it’s dirty or that the service sucks—all whiners with no taste. It’s packed because it’s popular. And if MBB seems dirty, it’s because it’s old (the place has been in continuous operation under various owners since the 1870s); if the service is sometimes weak, well, that happens everywhere.
There are no TVs at My Brother’s Bar, just classical music on the sound system. The place is dark, but comfortable, and worn-in. The tap selection is wide and the food is greasy pub fare at its most respectable; the burgers, especially, have a strong reputation.
The JCB is perhaps the bar’s most famous burger, a patty topped with jalapeño cream cheese on a sesame-seed bun. It sounds pretty standard, even boring. Red Robin regulars will be dismayed by the lack of chipotle mayo and creole mustard sauce. Truly, when the JCB arrives at the table in a humble paper wrapper, it’s not much to look at, just a disc of beef smeared with cream cheese. Lettuce and tomato don’t come standard; pickles and onions from the included tray of condiments and toppings, though, are good for adding crunch.
But the JCB doesn’t really need much adornment; it’s best straight out of the kitchen. The meat is juicy, flavorful, and just greasy enough for that kick of fatty satisfaction. The buttery, pillow-soft bun is covered in a generous smear of cream cheese, tangy and a wee bit spicy from the jalapeño.
My Brother’s food is best when the bar is busiest, and lunchtime can be hectic. Tourists, downtown office workers, and lucky folks with nothing to do hunker into My Brother’s shadowy corners with pints of beer, huddling under vintage posters, watching the traffic on 15th Street. Outsiders walking by sometimes peer into the windows. What’s this place with no sign out front, so dimly lit and crowded? It’s My Brother’s Bar, baby, and it doesn’t need a goddamn sign.
