The perplexing decadence of D Bar’s donut tartar
Dessert arrives early at D Bar Desserts. It’s the main course, really, but it sneaks its way onto the menu in unexpected places. Case in point: the donut tartar.
D Bar’s “Things We Like To Eat” menu is a short list of options for the non-sweet-toothed and those who require some sustenance before diving into D Bar’s decadent treats. Health food this is not, despite a few salad options: macaroni and cheese, sliders, pizza, steak. Near the top of the lineup is the mysterious donut tartar, described simply as “bomboloni, kobe tartar, tomatillo jam, decret sauce, serrano sliver.”
Bomboloni is a puffy Italian pastry, typically weaponized with rich filling. The D Bar version looks more like a petite donut hole when it comes out of the kitchen. Three of the little guys sit on a rectangular platter, looking more like a cute arrangement of mini-desserts than an appetizer. The raw steak on top resembles a raspberry confection, the bomboloni look like sugared donut holes and the “decret” sauce could easily be mistaken for an artful smear of vanilla glaze.
It’s not completely an illusion. Those wee bomboloni are dusted with sugar. Take a bite and the tongue is flummoxed by a fascinating combination of cold, raw meat, perfectly cooked sweet pastry, and buttery sauce. Add in the tiny shred of serrano pepper, and the taste buds start sending urgent “What the hell?” signals to the brain.
Feeling a bit perplexed by a dish is always exciting. You may not particularly like what you’re eating, but at least it’s new and unusual. Questions are raised: What is this “decret” sauce? Why did they add the sugar? What’s happening over here with the raw beef? Eating the dainty bites of the donut tartar is like solving a puzzle.
The donut tartar is interesting, but it’s not quite a hit. Then again, it’s likely meant to be a shared appetizer, not a tiny, bizarre meal. For a suitably strange entree, give the Southernfried Belgian a whirl. A hunk of fried chicken sandwiched between two savory, cheesy waffles, it’s a hearty dish that barely leaves room for the main event: dessert.
D Bar’s desserts are funny and playful, with names like “Ch-ch-ch-churros!” and “Molten Cake Thingy Everybody Has.” The “Cake And Shake” is a longstanding favorite, a towering slice of incredibly rich, dense chocolate cake paired with a chocolate or vanilla shake. This is for hardened chocoholics only. It’s why people come to D Bar—100 percent pure love, no clever tricks or puzzle-solving required.
