Tucked Away: Spices Café
A nearly invisible eatery hides some great grub
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Off the beaten path, down that flight of stairs, or tucked behind some crappy façade, some restaurants are overlooked because of their weird locations. It’s almost like there’s a parallel universe of Denver dining lurking just beyond the curtain of the conventional. Just because a restaurant doesn’t have the foresight or bankroll to snag a prime strip of real estate, though, doesn’t mean its food isn’t worth tracking down. Case in point: Spices Café.
It’s ironic that Spices is so hard to notice: Perched on the little delta of blacktop in the middle of the three-way convergence of Colfax, Park, and Franklin, the establishment is located mere yards from one of the busiest intersections in the city. And it’s attached to the back of the popular bar Streets Of London. In fact, Spices recently augmented its own menu with Streets’ selection of English-pub-style fish and chips, shepherd's pie, and curry, which can be ordered from Spices' counter without having to go into the bar.
Spices, however, has a gastronomic identity all its own. The tiny space that houses the four-table restaurant once held a deli, and Spices is laid out much the same way. The blown-up menu hangs above a glass deli case filled with fresh desserts, and a dry-erase board announces the day’s specials. Fresh is the operational concept behind the menu’s selections: Sandwiches, salads, soups, and breakfast plates are the focus, but all are given a twist of green or grain by chef and proprietor Michael Watren—a man who clearly knows how to make the familiar feel (and taste) fantastic.
Watren uses Spices as a front for a catering business called Toque Blanche, and his commitment to solid, homey, crowd-pleasing fare carries over to his regular menu. His char-grilled burgers have the heft and depth of a great steak, and his farmer’s salad is a massive yet harmonious conglomeration that includes artichoke hearts, avocado, mushrooms, and hard-boiled eggs. And the man clearly holds soups to a higher purpose: His rotating daily selection of chowders, stews, and good old veggie soup are a meal unto themselves. Then there’s the dessert case, packed with from-scratch pies. Apple may be the obvious choice, but Watren’s apple walnut crunch puts a hearty spin on a worn-out classic.
And don’t forget those specials. Everything from tender gnocchi to earthy red chili with homemade cornbread pops up on Spices’ daily specials board—miraculously for around $5—which is probably why Spices tends to get busy as hell during lunch. But the place is pretty much dead the rest of the time, even during weekend mornings when everyone’s lined up at all of Denver’s popular brunch spots—and missing out on Spices’ kick-ass huevos rancheros, which sports the most zingy and vibrant chile verde you’ll find on Capitol Hill. That is, if you find Spices at all.
