Zona's Tamales is all heart (and pig-ear sandwiches)
City neighborhoods are like cuts of meat. Here in Denver, the posh, boutique-filled Cherry Creek is the prime rib; the smooth, angular homes in Lowery and Stapleton are the boneless, skinless chicken breast; the historic Five Points neighborhood, meanwhile, is a bit tougher of a cut (pun fully intended). Its scrappy, multi-ethnic flavor, however, may be perfectly captured by the infamous pig-ear sandwiches at Zona’s Tamales.
Tamales may be this joint’s signature dish, but the small dry-erase board alongside the counter tells the real story: “Five Point’s oldest restaurant: The Pig Ear Stand.” The sandwich, served on an unassuming white bun is covered in chopped onions, then drenched in a spicy-sweet mustard that’ll leave diners with sticky fingers, palms, and even wrists. Zona’s dishes are perfectly complemented by its soulful sides, like the soupy, bitter collard greens.
It isn’t just about Southern comfort foods, though. In fact, Zona's has a bigger menu than some full-service restaurants. All-American favorites like chili dogs, cheeseburgers, and hot wings can all be found here. The corn dogs, especially, are a real treat, breaded thick and fried to a perfect consistency.
This blue-and-orange shack sits on a busy street corner and doesn’t exactly lend itself to high expectations. Its tiny kitchen is held together almost entirely by duct tape, and Zona’s “dining area” (actually just a couple of tables out in the parking lot) is all atmosphere. Directly across the street is the Rossonian Hotel, where jazz greats such as Billie Holiday, Charlie Parker, and Duke Ellington played during the Point’s heyday. The setting makes for a deliciously un-gentrified experience, as uniquely Denver-centric as a steak from the Buckhorn Exchange or the sopapillas at Casa Bonita. Zona’s is the perfect example of what Five Points is all about: It may serve up a lot of ears, but at the end of the day, it’s all heart.
