Blog Buzzed and bloated in style: A look at two new Madison pubs

On the well-supported theory that Madison can never have too many venues for drinking beer, two new restaurants primarily emphasizing suds opened recently in rapid succession, and they are of the new breed. The old pub theory—that food is only useful as a sturdy base which allows consumption of more beer—is being replaced with the gastropub theory, which states that people still want to soak up ale with food in a bar, but will pay more for better beers and actual food (as opposed to packets of chips, pretzels, and pickles). The A.V. Club headed to both new places this week to get suckered by ambitiously planned beer lists, an arsenal of upscale bar food, and ace-in-the-hole flat-screen TVs with the game on.

The owners of Vintage Spirits And Grill (529 University Ave., 608-250-0700) recently opened a west-side microbrewery arm, Vintage Brewing Company (674 S. Whitney Way, 608-204-2739), in the space formerly occupied by JT Whitney's. The on-site brewery isn't quite up and running, but a nice list of bottled and canned beers from Wisconsin (Furthermore Knot Stock, New Glarus Raspberry Tart), an extensive specialty drink menu (martinis, ice-cream drinks), and a thoughtful wine list are all online. Appetizers include chorizo with green chili peppers and feta flatbread, pot stickers, and grilled polenta with wild mushroom stew. Sliders compete with tacos and grilled salmon salad for attention. A turkey dinner with white and dark meat, mashed potatoes, stuffing, gravy, and cranberry sauce is plenty big enough to share. The burgers are ample and carefully prepared. But the biggest improvement here is the transformation of the interior: The care-worn booths and battered tables are gone, replaced with spiffy new furniture and an array of retro signs, posters, and aged televisions. It's fun, kitschy and welcoming. The first thing to do is recline in the faux-leather couches in front of the fireplace, a perfect place to watch the game provided you get there early—the Vintage was mobbed on Tuesday night. Lunch will be served beginning Jan. 25, but a trial run is scheduled for Jan. 23 (call for details).

The Coopers Tavern (20 W. Mifflin St., 608-256-1600) opened on the Square to tremendous excitement and a thus-far sustained popularity with lines out the door. This was initially a bit surprising, as The Old Fashioned (23 N. Pinckney St., 608-310-4545), Brocach (7 W. Main St., 608-255-2015), and The Local Tavern (102 King St., 608-287-1455) are all doing more or less the same thing with a wide beer selection and upscale pub food steps away. It's exactly the specifics of more (varieties of craft beer) and less (emphasis on food, stressing bar over restaurant) that appear to be firing people up. The beer selection spans 150 bottled beers and 25 taps. The menu is up to its supporting role, centering on sandwiches (Reuben and brisket, decent enough) and nicely bountiful, full-meal salads. The inclusion of poutine on the menu should be a home run, but this limp bowl of fries topped with gravy and semi-melted cheese curds is, tragically, a soggy mess. Either way, the Cooper's boasts good flat-screen TVs, and whether or not Madison needs more brewpubs, it's always nice to have a classy option for game-watching downtown.