Drunken dungeons for winter: Dark beers served in dark basements

The soul-crushing gloom of late February is the worst part of winter in Wisconsin. By this time, tempers are short and everyone feels at least a little harried. But riding out the last stretch of winter with locally brewed porters and stouts can provide a crucial edge over that surly, seasonal-affective part of the brain that just wants to bitch about everything. The A.V. Club also suggests downing these dark beers in darker basements, where there are no windows affording views of unremitting ice and snow.

Ale Asylum Contorter Porter
The taste of chocolate in this dark and dense porter gives way to a creamy maple. A few more swills prove that it’s not too chewy to guzzle.
Dungeon of choice: A strange and slimy sediment oozes between the cracks of the stacked stone basement walls at Argus Bar & Grille (123 E. Main St., 608-256-4141), where the Contorter is on tap. It's real Edgar Allan Poe territory down there; toasts are best begun with "The thousand injuries of Fortunato I had borne as best I could...."

Great Dane Emerald Isle Stout
This stout has strong notes of coffee, is nearly pitch-black, and produces a thin, white, creamy head. But the sullen drinker will first latch on to its burnt malts and slightly bitter bite.
Dungeon of choice: The cramped and slightly sinister basement at The Great Dane's downtown brewpub (123 E. Doty St., 608-284-0000) is secluded and low-ceilinged, ideal for hunkering down away from the frozen winds of winter.

Lake Louie Tommy's Porter
Subtle chocolate and caramel tastes in the finish add depth to the strong roasted malt flavors in this full-bodied porter.
Dungeon of choice: Greenbush Bar (914 Regent St., 608-257-2874) is in a pleasant basement, and it’s easy to lose track of time sitting at the bar. Have another porter: By the time you emerge, spring could be here.