Fatness before the fast: Where to gorge on Mardi Gras
A po' boy with a side of beads at New Orleans Take Out.
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For Catholics, Ash Wednesday marks the beginning of Lent's deprivations. That's why Mardi Gras, or "Fat Tuesday"—that's tomorrow, Feb. 16—is so important. This food-oriented lead-in prior to 40 days of sacrifice is basically an excuse for debauchery and feasting, even—nay, especially—for those who aren't exactly planning to give something up. Because Madison in February isn't the kind of place where a lively tits-for-beads exchange can arise, The A.V. Club explores some local Cajun-flavored options to help make the most of this day of indulgence.
Jambalaya
The classic Mardi Gras dish jambalaya piles on chicken, sausage, tomatoes, and various seafood (plus stock, rice, and various spices) in three stages. The Bayou Restaurant (117 S. Butler St., 608-294-9404) stakes its name on a version so hearty that eating the next day will seem ill-advised.
Wildcard option: Vegetarian jambalaya at Louisianne's Etc. (7464 Hubbard Ave., Middleton, 608-831-1929) is essentially a vegetable stew with the right spices—admittedly all wrong, but simultaneously tasting all right.
Po' boys
The po' boy tradition of stuffing a yeast-heavy bread filled with delicious meat essentially makes it the handiest option for a Fat Tuesday face-stuffing. New Orleans Take Out (1517 Monroe St., 608-280-8000; 1920 Fordem Ave., 608-241-6655) fills up French rolls with a choice of Gulf shrimp, oysters, grilled Hillshire Farms sausage, catfish, or smoked ham.
Wildcard option: The Echo Tap & Grill (554 W. Main St., 608-256-6928) hosts a respectable annual po' boy blowout all day on Mardi Gras.
Fried catfish
Mardi Gras food staples in American are largely driven by the celebration in Louisiana, where catfish is abundant. The Caribbean-oriented menu at Jolly Bob’s (1210 Williamson St., 608-251-3902) includes the flagship Avo Cat, a nut-encrusted fried-catfish filet with avocado puree.
Wildcard option: Essen Haus (514 E. Wilson St., 608-255-4674) is a German beer hall and restaurant, but will be serving a full Mardi Gras menu on Tuesday, including blackened catfish with Cajun corn and dirty rice.
