LuLu’s is closing soon, so make sure to eat there while you still can

For nearly three decades, LuLu’s (2524 University Ave., 608-233-2172) has operated one of the best Middle Eastern restaurants and delis in Wisconsin, but a housing redevelopment will close LuLu’s doors on Feb. 28, with the final dinner service on Feb. 19. LuLu’s is looking for another space, but has not yet found anything suitable.

So unless something semi-miraculous happens, next week will be the last chance for locals to dine on the Turkish, Lebanese, and Arabic dishes that LuLu’s made parts of Madison. Rose water and perhaps a celebratory glass of Sauvignon Blanc, which meets the acid tones of LuLu’s intensely savory fare, set the tone. If something more adventurous sounds appealing, try laban; the salty yogurt drink exemplifies LuLu’s feisty spirit, enduring these many years while so many other businesses have folded.

While you still can, indulge in everything LuLu’s does so well. At dinner, pita bread arrives warm and nestled under a napkin in a basket, calling for a plate of garlic-heavy hummus dusted with spices, with whole garbanzos centered in olive oil and flanked by three sour pickles around the edges. The smoky falafel combines ground chickpeas and bulgur seasoned with onions and spices, served with tangy yogurt sauce. And the shawarma at LuLu’s is marinated, spiced beef slices tucked into pita and topped with tomatoes and red onions.

For dessert, try the Turkish baklava, dusted with cinnamon and properly layered with alternating strata of filo pastry, nuts, and honey. Or order warbat, a baked filo pastry stuffed with sweet pudding.

It’s a bittersweet occasion, but the last meal at LuLu’s will be one worth remembering.