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Belly Up Port of call: Wollersheim Winery

Fatsometer

Most people know port is often served at the conclusion of a fancy meal, and that it goes well with chocolate cake, but what is it exactly? Wine? Or some bastard wine-like approximation? Julie Coquard of Prairie du Sac 's Wollersheim Winery (7876 State Rd., 608-643-6515) explains: "Port starts out as a grape wine. The winemaker halts fermentation—leaving the natural sweetness of the grapes—then fortifies it with brandy, resulting in higher alcohol content." On Saturday, Jan. 30 from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., Wollersheim will celebrate the unveiling of two new creations: Port 2008 (in barrels for 13 months) and Tawny Port 2005 (aged five years). "Port plates" of blue cheese, aged cheddar, chocolate truffles, and almonds will be available for noshing while winemaker Philippe Coquard discusses the generalities and particulars of this venerable Portuguese beverage.

Fatsometer: 8. Attendees will need to scarf up plenty of cheese, truffles, and nuts to counteract the powerful porto.

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