Quasi-Asian drink-athon
Fusion and boozin’ with the flavors of the Orient
Tiffany Mason
Bandung's Nutty Coconut cocktail.
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Most of the restaurants that bring international flavors to Madison just seem so dignified by nature. And by “dignified,” we mean “sober.” That said, their hushed atmosphere and exotic food shouldn’t necessarily scare off those searching for a stiff drink. Decider recently took a non-bar crawl through a few of Madison’s finer Asian restaurants.
Madison’s only Indonesian restaurant, Bandung, boasts a surprisingly elaborate slate of fruity cocktails. Its cocktail menu warns that the White Tiger, made with butterscotch crème liqueur, “is unique, fun, but dangerous. Be careful!!!” Indeed, don’t order that one, as it’s reminiscent of a Werther’s Original that’s been sitting under a car seat for two weeks. Much smoother and sneakier is the Nutty Coconuts’ mix of vanilla vodka, coconut rum, coconut milk, and coconut meat. That, combined with the extra-sippable lychee martini (which includes two lychee fruits instead of olives), makes it worth coming to Bandung just for drinks and assorted fried appetizers at the outdoor tables.
Those who want the far-flung cuisine on their plates but not in their cups may be drawn to the fluorescent blue light that radiates from Dobhan’s small bar. The specialty drinks list here skips the restaurant’s intriguing Nepali influences in favor of classy takes on a few standbys. The house sangria boasts everything any sangria should have, from the cherry and orange slices to the buttery red-wine finish. Dobhan’s takes on martinis, mojitos, bloody Marys, and so forth at least come with the same thoughtful and elegant twist. Still, the main attraction in a glass here isn’t even an adult beverage. The strawberry and mango lassis would curdle if you tried to spike them, because they’re yogurt-based, but they’re about as festive as non-alcoholic drinks get.
Sushi Muramoto has built a formidable rep on its fusion menu, and this inventiveness can just as easily be found in its updated takes on the crusty vodka martini as it can in one of its signature sushi rolls. The Asian saketini begins with Grey Goose L’Orange, but replaces vermouth with a few squirts of a sour Japanese citrus fruit called yuzu. It’s all topped off with a dash of Momokawa sake, rendering it a tart and drinkable treat. Even jauntier is the lychee martini. It too starts with a healthy base of Grey Goose L’Orange, but is then mixed with a kiwi-ish lychee puree. For alliteration and rice wine enthusiasts alike, Hana Hou Hou Shu sake is infused with rose hips, hibiscus, and carbonation for a festive and sparkling turn on a trusty standby. Only slightly less repetitious is Yokino Bosa Bosha sake, which includes hints of peaches and pineapple, but finishes with a flourish of spice.
