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Belly Up Sardine's Easter brunch is decadent and depraved

Fatsometer

It's always decadent to sip a Bloody Mary and slurp oysters on the half shell before noon, but the Easter brunch spread at Sardine (617 Williamson St., 608-441-1600) is especially depraved. On Sunday, April 4 from 9 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., chefs John Gadau and Phillip Hurley will assemble a banquet to stultify the senses, no doubt inciting uselessness for the rest of the day. After oyster shooters with mignonette, a filet of grilled salmon with white beans and a poached egg over frisée salad furthers the seafood motif for those feeling fishy. Dairy fans will find the fat-rich goat cheese omelet with bacon and roasted cherry tomatoes hard to resist, and carnivores can revel in crab, bacon, and rock shrimp cakes. The savory German sausages with sauerkraut, potato leek croquette, and two eggs may be incapacitating; while the plate of Buckwheat Belgian waffles with whipped cinnamon orange butter, sliced banana, and pure maple syrup offer a refuge for sweeter and lighter tastes.

Fatsometer: 10. Regardless of your religious beliefs, there are no miracles when squaring off against chipotle beurre blanc.

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