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Secret suppers: A beginner's guide to Madison's semi-underground dining clubs

slow food UW Courtesy Slow Food UW Offerings at a recent Family Dinner Night.

Legend has it that Madison has more restaurants per capita than any other city in the United States. True or not, that count includes only the regular dining spots. Madison is also home to a host of unconventional places to dine and special “in the know” meals, either offered regularly or on special occasions. Scarcely advertised (if at all), these meals cultivate a secretive air that often requires a sign from above to find. Not exactly restaurants and not exactly dinner parties, these groups have devoted followings, but what is it that they do? The A.V. Club sniffed out the options.

Glass House Supper Club
Every so often, this crepe-serving coffee shop morphs into the Glass House Supper Club and features multi-course meals with a seasonal theme.
Where: Bradbury’s (127 N. Hamilton St., 608-204-0474)
When: Sporadic and usually sold out by the time you see the poster hanging on the wall.
Vibe: In-the-know foodies in their 20s and 30s.
Price: $30, beer and wine extra, or BYOB.
Bat Signal: Friend Bradbury’s on Facebook and watch for signs posted in the coffee shop.

Underground Food Collective
Sometimes offering a meal and sometimes staging a whole animal-butchering class, the Underground Food Collective cooks and serves in barns, farms, museums, senior centers, community centers, and on rooftops—a constantly changing culinary experience that’s even been hailed by the New York Times.
Where: See above
When: Several times a year. The next event is the “Taste of Traditions” dinner in honor of Earth Day at the Wisconsin Historical Museum on April 22 at 6:30 p.m.
Vibe: Sophisticated and DIY with a strong focus on farmers and locally grown ingredients. The grower (or, as the case may be, pig farmer) often attends, so expect some production talk and heavy foodie chatter.
Bat Signal: Friend Underground Catering on Facebook or visit UFC's website.

Black Market Madison
A group of Weary Traveler (1201 Williamson St., 608-442-6207) employees formed this group looking to cook their own food, presumably different than the refined pub food found at their workplace. The inaugural dinner was held in early March.
Where: Near-East Side locations. The first was at Project Lodge.
When: Monthly.
Vibe: Still simmering.
Bat Signal: Friend the group on Facebook or visit BMM's website.

School Woods Supper Club
A supper club housed in an unmarked house on East Washington Avenue, School Woods serves monthly dinners, brunches, and other meals family-style, focusing on seasonal and local foods. The chef, Deb Shapiro, is a librarian by day and foodie by night and weekend. The bar for membership is pretty low: Just don’t be a “mean-spirited weasel like Dick Cheney.”
Where: 2130 E. Washington Ave.
When: Varies, but the club averages two meals a month. Currently brunch is served on uneven-numbered Sundays up through June 13. Reservations required.
Vibe: University types, librarians, and families enjoying a casual meal in a homey (because it is a home), highly sociable atmosphere. It’s like going to a friend’s house for dinner—a friend who cooks your favorite foods really well.
Price: About $10
Bat Signal: Join the e-mail list at School Woods' website.

Family Dinner Nights
Sponsored by the students of Slow Food UW, the weekly dinners usually feature a guest chef and a group of volunteers helping to prepare the meal from locally sourced ingredients. Meals often center around loose themes—Greek, African, Nepali—and are sometimes partnerships with student groups representing students you probably didn’t know were numerous enough to constitute a group like the Hellenic Students Association.
Where: The Crossing, 1127 University Ave.
When: Every Monday during the school year, 5:30 p.m.-9:30 p.m.. RSVPs are encouraged.
Vibe: Held in a church basement but blissfully free of the marshmallow salad and cocktail wienies that typically grace church basement tables. The crowd is usually young and really, really socially aware. Anyone is welcome and dinners are a steal at $5.
Bat Signal: Check the Slow Food UW website for the calendar.

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