First Impressions Sze Chuan Chinese Restaurant

Szechuan cuisine is famous for its uses of the aggressive flavors of hot chili peppers, garlic, and ginger. So when a sign reading “Sze Chuan -- Coming Soon” appeared in a mini-mall on the Near West Side, observant Madisonians perked up at the prospect of a good purveyor of super spicy flavors from the Sichuan province of China in that location. Then, for month after month, the curious passers-by waited, wondering when the goddamn place would actually serve food. Sze Chuan Chinese Restaurant finally opened its doors to a public that may no longer be interested, but The A.V. Club prepared the good chopsticks to check it out anyway.

The space and service: It’s a standard-issue carry-out joint, not really set up for dining in. The harsh lighting and cheap plastic accoutrements are slightly bettered by posters of pandas and the Great Wall of China. The staff is friendly and efficient.

The A.V. Club’s food: Deep-fried, smallish egg rolls are satisfying in a greasy kind of way, if sub-par. That’s the only thing small about this menu, though—entrées come in gargantuan tubs that could easily feed three or four people with the attendant rice. General Tso’s chicken comes in a syrupy candied glaze and is reasonably tasty, if a little mystery meat-ish—it’s hard to tell what’s going on under all that batter and sauce. “Szechaun Delight” isn’t at all spicy, which is criminal, and lacks focus to boot, but is improved by tiny whole mushrooms and bamboo shoots. Sesame tofu is gelatinous, the enormous tofu hunks saturated with another plummy sweet sauce.

The verdict: Those who crave vast amounts of sugar-rich, salty Chinese-American food at a reasonable price will be happy here, but this neighborhood will have to wait for a Szechuan dynamo.