First impression: Stack'd Burger Bar

Since opening this summer, Stack'd Burger Bar (170 S. 1st St., 273-7800) has aroused the curiosity of Milwaukee diners always looking for the perfect burger. In keeping with its fashionable location sandwiched between The Third Ward and Walker’s Point, Stack’d also offers a variety of vegetarian and vegan options, as well as a selection of vegan-friendly wines.

The space: It looks every bit the trendy diner, with sharp-looking red-topped tables and dark brown, hardwood floors meshing classily with the stainless steel, open-air kitchen. It feels nicer than a fast-food joint, but still casual enough for a lunchtime pig-out.

The service: A sign by the door encourages diners to seat themselves and wait for a server. We ordered appetizers—stuffed jalapeños peppers and Harry's fried potent pickle spears—and were complimented on our choices. Unfortunately, they brought us a mozzarella stack instead of the fried pickles. Still, this story has a happy ending: The wonton-wrapped mozzarella pile cleverly "stack'd" with balsamic-soaked fresh tomatoes and drizzled with pesto and balsamic syrup was tasty, and we didn't send it back.

The A.V. Club's food: The Hangover Stack was the most traditional of the burgers we tried, and probably the best. It features a familiar combination of fried onions, cheddar cheese, lettuce, and tomato, along with fried egg, Tabasco, and bacon for your hangover. (Or heart attack—whichever comes first.) The Gobbler is a hearty turkey burger enhanced by fresh sage and a dousing of rich turkey gravy, shaved celery, and sweet potatoes fried and stacked up like crispy Lo mein noodles. In our bratwurst-brained city, The German Stack put a tantalizing spin on a local favorite, presenting classic brat elements—raw onions, sauerkraut and stone ground mustard—with the distinct texture of a burger. The jalapeño and blue cheese in the beer brat patty, however, were uneven and a little unwelcome in the face of such beloved flavors.

The verdict: Aside from some service hiccups, Stack’d could have the goods to enter the pantheon of Milwaukee burger joints.