First Impression: Stubby's Pub & Grill
Never-ending construction on the Humboldt Avenue bridge did more than make accessing Brady Street from Riverwest massively inconvenient. It also murdered business for area restaurants like The Good Life and Bayou, which closed up shop before the bridge finally reopened in June. Now, renewed culinary hope runs down Humboldt. There are plans for a taqueria to open at the former site of The Good Life, and Aug. 5 saw the former Bayou replaced by Stubby’s Pub & Grub (2060 N. Humboldt Ave., 414-763-6324). The A.V. Club wasted little time in crossing the spanking new bridge and—after wondering what the hell took so long—paying Stubby’s a visit.
The space: For those construction-averse souls who never ventured to Bayou, the building is incredibly spacious. The remodeled interior is complete with tons of seating, a huge triangular bar, a host of flat-screen TVs, and even shuffleboard and pool tables. Somehow, the vast outdoor patio manages to outdo the dining room, with its elevated and oddly pristine view of the brown, Band-Aid-strewn Milwaukee River banks.
The service: In spite having only a few days on the job, our server was attentive and knowledgeable, displaying an extensive knowledge of both the food menu and sizable beer and wine list. He was quick to offer recommendations in addition to answers for any dumb question we lobbed his way, such as, “Is there really a guy named Stubby?” (Supposedly, there is.)
The A.V. Club’s food: We started off with a pint of Abita Purple Haze ($5), one of the bar’s impressive 53 draft beer options. Though the raspberry-wheat proved an unfortunate gamble, we took solace in knowing 52 other options, ranging from European offerings to a selection of brews from nearby Lakefront Brewery, flowed through the tap lines.
We followed our Abita up with the drool-inducing Stubby’s Burger ($12.95). We attacked the behemoth burger—stacked high with juicy BBQ pulled pork, crispy bacon, batter-fried onion strands, along with fresh lettuce and tomato—knowing it would be a messy-yet-delectable ordeal. The namesake hamburger did not disappoint, making our heart hurt ever more (both out of love and from caloric intake) with each savory bite. We chased the beefy work of art with a side of creamy baked macaroni and cheese. In addition to burgers, Stubby’s serves up an array of soups, sandwiches, and a range of entrées, including catfish tacos, ribs, and chicken and waffles.
The verdict: Despite its wholly unappetizing name and prices that border on steep, Stubby’s is a welcome addition, both for its methodical menu and lavish location.
