First impression: The Dubliner

To veterans of the Milwaukee bar scene, The Dubliner may already be a familiar name. The Irish pub chain—which also has locations in cities such as Tampa, Washington D.C., New York City, St. Paul, and, yes, Dublin—formerly stood on Second Street until it closed in 1997. Following a 13-year absence and a three-block move, The Dubliner (124 W. National Ave.) again opened its doors to thirsty Milwaukeeans last month. The A.V. Club wasted little time in paying the Walker’s Point pub a visit.

The space: Sharing an owner with the neighboring Steny’s, the building was renovated to look like a stone cottage. Inside, an equally ambitious renovation has taken place. The wood floors and molding of the establishment shine, as do the tables, chairs, and the lengthy and winding bar. With the scent of sawdust still hanging in the air, a few final touches need be made to tie up the brand-new interior. But a hand-painted mural of an Irish countryside and framed Irish prints are early indicators of the bar’s attention to decorative detail.

The service: New establishments tend to get a free pass early on, but one wasn’t needed at The Dubliner. Our barkeep was kind, attentive, and knowledgeable of the pub’s beer and whiskey selection. We were also handed an impressive menu with food options including crab cakes, fish and chips, Guinness barbecue shrimp, corned beef, lamb shank sandwich, and more commonplace items like the B.L.T. sandwich.

The A.V. Club’s drinks: While maneuvering down the tap line, we dodged the Guinness and Murphy’s in favor of an unfamiliar New Glarus draft option, a brown ale called Cabin Fever. At just $3.50, it proved a worthwhile and delicious gamble. We followed with a pint of Magners Irish Cider. Sure, Magners isn’t exactly an Irish pub rarity, but as a draft option, the sweet cider is somewhat more difficult to find.

The verdict: Through treading well-worn territory, The Dubliner holds back on the shamrocks and leprechauns to give customers a nice neighborhood pub in which to sip their Jameson and eat corned beef.