Tucked Away Oscar’s Pub And Grill

Milwaukee’s obsession with the ultimate burger is well-documented—mostly on Twitter and TV shows like Food Wars. Yes, our city is still haunted by the memories of the epic Sobelman’s/AJ Bombers burger war of 2010: old chefs congregate at VFW halls to compare battle wounds, and Spielberg’s been rumored to be in pre-production for Saving Sara Conrad. But had the Great Burger Battle happened one year later, both sides may have been blindsided by a dark horse nestled between the warehouses of Clarke Square: Oscar’s Pub And Grill, which opened in March of this year.

Oscar’s—not to be confused with the Milwaukee custard institution; it’s named after the owner, former Sobelman’s employee Oscar Castaneda—comes across like your standard Milwaukee townie tavern. The walls are adorned with beer signs, a dartboard rests in the corner, and the usual local brews are on tap; Spotted Cow, Riverwest Stein, and Louie’s Demise are all represented. The pristine walls, new hardwood floor, and slick table tennis setup still have a “Grand Opening,” new-bar feel to them. But how the heck is a new local haunt supposed to get properly broken in when people can’t smoke in it?

If you think that poking fun at the cleanliness of a pub and grill means we’re grasping at straws to find something to criticize about the place, you’d be correct, because less than a year in business, Oscar’s can lay claim to some of the best burgers in town. We’ve sampled three of the five specialty burgers on the menu, and while the 8 oz. Angus patty is workmanlike in its quality, it’s the toppings that put the burgers into Guy Fieri “o-face” territory. Our favorite is The Big O, which features chipotle Jack and smoked Gouda cheeses, hickory bacon, chorizo, fried onions, and jalapeños, with guac on the side. Even at a thrifty $7.25, it’s the most expensive burger on the menu. We’re also fond of the Big Aloha ($6.75), with its ham, Havarti cheese, avocado, and pineapple. It’s your standard Hawaiian burger, but Oscar’s does it right.

(Protip: Cough up the extra Washington and spring for Oscar’s secret weapon—the chipotle-cinnamon sweet potato fries with chipotle aioli dipping sauce. When it comes to sweet and savory, these little treats are enough to distract you from the fact that you have an awesome, sloppy burger to crush.)

Sure, for the typical A.V. Club reader, Oscar’s Pub And Grill may be a little out of the way, but burgers this good are worth the detour. Stop in, throw some money in the jukebox so Bob Marley doesn’t come back on, and let the Travel Channel know that there’s a new wild card in town.