The sweet history of the milkshake

Long before the smoothie, the slush, the Icee, or the Slurpee, there was the milkshake, our nation’s most revered frozen treat. Of course, it wasn’t always so sweet and innocent: To 19th-century foodies, the milkshake was more cocktail than dessert, with the original recipe calling for whiskey in addition to milk and eggs. Over time, sweet syrups were added, then ice cream, followed by malt powder, an evaporated mixture of barley, milk, and wheat flour that gave it its familiar, gritty texture. The proliferation of soda fountains and kitchen blenders in the early 20th century led the milkshake to be inextricably associated with ice cream—even though, technically, any milk-based beverage becomes a “shake” once its shaken or whipped until foamy. (And depending on where you are with regard to the Mason-Dixon, “shakes” may be impossible to find—although there are plenty of “frappes,” “cabinets,” and “velvets.”)

But a milkshake by any other name still tastes as sweet—even if it is freezing outside—and today the beverage is much more than the sum of its basic parts. The modern milkshake is an ever-evolving, liquid-solid hybrid whose proper preparation requires no small amount of finesse: Ice cream should be firm, but not frozen solid; the syrup should be well-mixed; the malt evenly distributed. Old-school fans swear by the Holy Trinity of chocolate, vanilla, and strawberry, but a more experimental generation has tinkered with Oreos, peanut butter, bananas, and even avocados. The demise of the old-fashioned ice cream parlor means milkshakes are almost always served not in ornate soda glasses but packed into insulated cups, but in the rare case of the sit-down milkshake experience, the best restaurateurs offer patrons both a proper glass and the stainless steel mixer for refills.

National chains such as McDonald’s offer a partially gelatinized, non-dairy, gum-based product that’s decent enough, but the taste is hit or miss and the texture more airy than creamy. As with most food, local is the way to go, and in Milwaukee you can usually get your milkshake made with custard. For everyday staples, try the dense vanilla or chocolate shake—made with or without malt—at Wisconsin’s own chain, Culver’s (multiple locations) or Patty Burger , which also offers a shake in that perfect flavor combination, peanut butter and chocolate. For more custard options, check out the stainless-steel empire Kopp’s (multiple locations), which keeps people coming year-round, or the wonderful and retro Leon’s  as long as you don’t mind sitting outside. Finally, folks who need a little booze in their shake will relish At Random's frou-frou ice cream drinks. Really, who doesn’t want to slurp down a Grasshopper in a completely kitschy atmosphere? No need to eat dinner before you go.