Cafe Levain: A quirky, cozy neighborhood favorite
Although Restaurant Levain made the downshift to Café Levain a few years ago, there are still many foodies who have yet to make the trek to the "new" place, despite a fresh menu, different chef, and cozier atmosphere. The A.V. Club lays out the reasons you should return—or just discover it for the first time.
In the kitchen: Originally brought on as a prep cook, Adam Vickerman enjoyed the kind of fairytale rise that would occur if chefs wrote fairy tales. He took over from culinary wunderkind Eric Sturtz in early 2008, and tweaked the Levain menu only slightly, preferring to stick with diner favorites like the short ribs. Sous chef Remle Colestock writes the restaurant's blog, so if you yearn for lovingly penned postings about tomatoes and photos of posh dishes, go to Levain's website for a fix.
The name: Levain is a bread leavening agent used by artisan bakers, usually replacing yeast. Bread enthusiasts feel that the stuff—which hails from France—produces breads that smell better and have a nicer texture. It also sounds better than Café Yeast.
Eat this: Did we mention the short ribs? It's difficult to skip them; melting off the bone, they're served up with Brussels sprouts and local kale, making the dish almost a health food option. Desserts are a combination of innovative—poached plum ice cream, for example—and quirky, like the "Elvis," which combines caramelized banana ice cream, brioche French toast, grape jelly, and bacon. There might not be enough jungle print in the dining room for Presley himself, but it's likely he would have polished off four or five of these namesake desserts.
Drink up: An extensive wine list is made simple with some chef suggestions, and the servers are uber-knowledgeable about describing the vino accurately. Ask for a "chewy" pinot noir—they've got it.
Mom, date, or pal?: With its dark wood, candlelight, and subdued noise level, this is date night all the way. The decor and feel is more casual than Restaurant Levain, but there's still enough intimate swankiness to make a first or second date memorable.
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Fellow gourmands: The mix of neighborhood denizens and foodies skews a little older than a hipster spot, so leave your Ed Hardy duds at home and make an effort toward business casual.
Economic impact: Entrées average about $20, but if you're a gourmand on a budget, opt for the "Sunday Suppers" three-course prix fixe tasting menu. It's still a bit on the pricey side at $25 for carnivores and $20 for veggie types, but more wallet-friendly than ordering a few appetizers and entrées separately.
Vital stats: Closed Mondays; Sunday, Tuesday-Thursday open 5-9 p.m.; Friday-Saturday 5-10 p.m. There's plenty of street parking. 4762 Chicago Ave. S, 612-823-7111, cafelevain.com.
