Food Crawl: 13th Avenue Northeast
Spend the day from breakfast to late-night drinks in this art-filled neighborhood.
Liz Anderson
Modern Cafe
Kicked out of the Warehouse District by rising rents, many forward-to-funky artists and artisans moved camp to Northeast Minneapolis, which is now dotted and festooned with studios, many of which throw their doors open to the public on a regular basis (checkbooks always welcome), which are sprinkled from the former Grain Belt Brewery to a onetime mill called the California Building. The artiest avenue, however, is 13th, anchored by the studios in the Keg House and lined with galleries, boutiques for home and body, and landmark Ritz Theater, home of Ballet Of The Dolls and venue for itinerant dancers, musicians and vaudeville shows. Feast your eyes and ears, but don’t neglect your stomach. Here’s where to eat.
Breakfast: Modern Café
On weekends, for breakfast you’ve got retro central: This way-cool café behind the ’40s brick storefront keeps its diner cred with Formica tables, the original soda counter, lino floor tiles and an iconic stuffed swordfish on the wall (don’t ask), while gently moving its menu into slightly hipper realms. Join the arts crowd (from creative types to funders) for weekend brunch, where chef/owner Jim Grell sneaks once-suspicious stuff, like chilaquiles with spicy salsa, onto the menu. The best bet, however, remains the signature Modern hash, composed of last night’s pot roast (luscious in its own right) melded with potatoes, herbs and peppers hitherto unknown in Nordeast. Sip your O.J. straight up or in a calming mimosa. And if you’re conditioned to suburban living, not to worry: These days you can summon a latte, too.
On weekends, for breakfast you’ve got retro central: This way-cool café behind the ’40s brick storefront keeps its diner cred with Formica tables, the original soda counter, lino floor tiles and an iconic stuffed swordfish on the wall (don’t ask), while gently moving its menu into slightly hipper realms. Join the arts crowd (from creative types to funders) for weekend brunch, where chef/owner Jim Grell sneaks once-suspicious stuff, like chilaquiles with spicy salsa, onto the menu. The best bet, however, remains the signature Modern hash, composed of last night’s pot roast (luscious in its own right) melded with potatoes, herbs and peppers hitherto unknown in Nordeast. Sip your O.J. straight up or in a calming mimosa. And if you’re conditioned to suburban living, not to worry: These days you can summon a latte, too.
For a weekday breakfast, the nearby Mill City Café, tucked among the maze of artists’ studios in the California Building, pumps out caffeine, muffins, and more in its sunny setting.
Lunch: The Sample Room
On your way between studios, swing over to the Sample Room to mix and match a snack of small plates (think Minnesota tapas). The setting—Lutheran-straight booths and a few chunky tables—retains much of the same atmosphere as the days when beer first spilled from the taps in the 1880s, but the menu has speed-dialed into the 21st century with winners like housemade sausages (we’re partial to the chicken/artichoke/garlic number, but the brat’s not shabby, either) and smoked trout. Other seafood nibbles segue from traditional walleye fingers to ethnic-centric pierogies stuffed with salmon and mashed potatoes to trend-chart tuna with miso glaze. Lovely cheese and veggie inventions, too, as well as soups, salads and sandwiches, if you really must. Lunch-size wine flights, too. Or come back for happy hour when they’re even cheaper.
On your way between studios, swing over to the Sample Room to mix and match a snack of small plates (think Minnesota tapas). The setting—Lutheran-straight booths and a few chunky tables—retains much of the same atmosphere as the days when beer first spilled from the taps in the 1880s, but the menu has speed-dialed into the 21st century with winners like housemade sausages (we’re partial to the chicken/artichoke/garlic number, but the brat’s not shabby, either) and smoked trout. Other seafood nibbles segue from traditional walleye fingers to ethnic-centric pierogies stuffed with salmon and mashed potatoes to trend-chart tuna with miso glaze. Lovely cheese and veggie inventions, too, as well as soups, salads and sandwiches, if you really must. Lunch-size wine flights, too. Or come back for happy hour when they’re even cheaper.
Dinner: Erte
Relax. Never mind the accent, this supperclub speaks Nordeast, not French, and that translates to swell service in a dark, comfy setting and strong martinis in the adjoining Peacock Lounge, plus—bottom line—an affordable steakhouse menu that doesn’t get all cute on you. The sirloin and filet (joined by long-baked brisket) sell for well under $30, and that includes soup or salad as well as (phone Mom) carrots and potatoes on the side. Chicken and seafood for the squeamish and lots of wines by the glass under $7. Live music weekends in this hangout with a warm neighborhood vibe.
Relax. Never mind the accent, this supperclub speaks Nordeast, not French, and that translates to swell service in a dark, comfy setting and strong martinis in the adjoining Peacock Lounge, plus—bottom line—an affordable steakhouse menu that doesn’t get all cute on you. The sirloin and filet (joined by long-baked brisket) sell for well under $30, and that includes soup or salad as well as (phone Mom) carrots and potatoes on the side. Chicken and seafood for the squeamish and lots of wines by the glass under $7. Live music weekends in this hangout with a warm neighborhood vibe.
Drinks: 331 Club
Here’s what you need to know: It’s right on the corner, in line with the Modern and the Ritz, so no need to move the car. Here’s what else: Open till 2 a.m.; drink specials nightly; half-priced wine Sunday through Thursday until 9; Blingo and prizes on Tuesdays; live music nightly, ranging from always-on-Mondays Roe Family Singers to, well, let’s just say, more eclectic numbers like Dr. Sketchy’s Life Drawing Cabaret on the fourth Sunday of the month. Models and booze, the apex—or nadir, depending on your perspective—of culture in Northeast.
Here’s what you need to know: It’s right on the corner, in line with the Modern and the Ritz, so no need to move the car. Here’s what else: Open till 2 a.m.; drink specials nightly; half-priced wine Sunday through Thursday until 9; Blingo and prizes on Tuesdays; live music nightly, ranging from always-on-Mondays Roe Family Singers to, well, let’s just say, more eclectic numbers like Dr. Sketchy’s Life Drawing Cabaret on the fourth Sunday of the month. Models and booze, the apex—or nadir, depending on your perspective—of culture in Northeast.
