Gandhi Mahal brings peace to troubled palates
Stacy Schwartz
There’s a lot for the self-righteous and the self-important to complain about at Gandhi Mahal. It’s not the most “authentic” Indian cuisine in town, it makes no pretext about achieving culinary perfection, and the restaurant has nothing to do with Gandhian austerity. What it does do is demonstrate that the frozen North can provide a fertile plain for ethnic Bangladeshis to make delicious food.
The Name: Gandhi Mahal invokes India’s favorite son as a pop commodity for the purpose of selling food. That might seem a little tasteless, but on the other hand, the more Americans are reminded that there are other ways to solve problems without spending billions to blow people up, the better.
The Digs: The restaurant is located just off the Hiawatha light-rail line on Lake Street, and adds to the eclectic world-beat of dining that has been steadily growing in the area, along with Midori's Floating World Cafe. The neon in the window tints black-and-white photos of Gandhi and happily buzzes next to dollar-store wall decorations pinned to walls of silk and oiled teak. This is one damn charming restaurant.
The Food: Mohandas Gandhi may have been a vegetarian, but you don't need to be: Gandhi Mahal has plenty of options for meat-eaters. The vindaloo here is excellent, and much of the menu is really, really good. Start with the dal soup, savor the delicious paneer, and march headlong into some of the best vindaloo you will ever have. If you don’t want to do any thinking and want one of the best-balanced meals in the Twin Cities just get the Gandhi Thali. This four-course dinner—served, Indian thali style, on a large platter—will leave you well-sated because, unlike the excessive use of huge flavors at “chef-driven” restaurants, the dishes complement one another rather than man-handle your taste buds.
The Drinks: For a little Indian restaurant, the wine list is impressive. But really, what’s the point? With the kind of flavors and richness that Gandhi Mahal boasts, fine wine is wasted here. Stick to the big bottles of Taj Mahal beer and be happy.
Mom, date, or pal?: Gandhi Mahal's charm attracts diners from all walks of life; on a recent visit, three Macalester students all split a single dinner (!) and uptight suburban folk downed Indian beer to tame the heat of their vindaloo. It may be particularly attractive for families, though, since Gandhi Mahal may very well be the only Indian restaurant on the planet that has its own playroom.
Economic impact: Appetizers are about five bucks, vegetarian entrées are less than $10, and entrées for carnivores are less than $15. The wine is less aggressively priced, but it’s a luxury you needn’t indulge in and the beer is cheap.
The Vitals: Open seven days a week, lunch buffet 11 a.m.-3 p.m. and dinner 5-10 p.m. 3009 27th Ave. S, 612-729-5222, gandhimahal.com.
