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Love bites: The best local chocolatiers

The way to a woman's heart is through her truffles

Chocolates from B.T. McElrath Chocolates from B.T. McElrath

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Valentine’s Day presents the SAT exam for lovers—sure, you think your sweetie’s pretty special, but to get a passing score on this day, just saying “I love you” may not make the cut. Say it with chocolate, too. Or better yet: If chocolate is an aphrodisiac, consider how much more potent locally made artisanal truffles must be. Money well spent, and most of these can be ordered online, too.
Chocolat Celeste (2500 University Ave. W., St. Paul), the Victoria’s Secret of bonbonnieres with its hot pink décor, fabricates 30 varieties of truffles, says owner Mary Leonard, who calls on a variety of imported chocolate to fashion her one-bite items. Most sought-after is her Celestial Sweetie, spiked with Frangelico liqueur, followed by Hot Chili Pepper, packaged in incendiary red foil. For Valentine’s, she’s also offering French vanilla bonbons stenciled with hearts, as well as dark beauties striped in her signature hot pink and lime green. She’s also introducing her new Pan-Asian collection, including flavors like ginger-citrus, plum wine, and Edible Pearls, which are “pearls” of dark chocolate embedded in white chocolate flavored with vanilla Bourbon. And because, let’s face it, looks do matter, she’s packaging V-Day sweets in purple linen boxes.
Golden Fig (790 Grand Ave., St. Paul) showcases a spectrum of regionally-made truffles, including Obsession from Eau Claire, Wis., filled with honey fleur de sel (the elite salt that’s the new foodie obsession); English Mint, enriched with dark chocolate and heavy organic cream; and the heart-shaped Dulce de Leche of dark chocolate, coffee, and Mexican caramel. And from Sweet Goddess in south-suburban Savage comes Chocolate Lovers’ Peppermint Bark. River Chocolate Company of St. Paul sends over chocolate sauce and tortes, says Fig’s Laurie Crowell, who also sells bonbons by B.T. McElrath.
Speaking of: B.T. McElrath has won widespread praise for his milk, dark, and white truffles, each made from a hand-crafted blend of European, American, and Colombian beans. For V-Day, he’s crafting his top-selling Passionfruit in heart-shaped molds, then airbrushing the seductive babes with white and dark chocolate. “They sell out,” he warns procrastinators. If they do, go with Love Note, a deep, dark chocolate with a candy-heart on top and a Champagne truffle with chocolate confetti. All are available in a traditional, heart-shaped candy box, too. Find them at specialty stores such as Surdyk’s Cheese Shop (303 E. Hennepin Ave.) and food markets including Whole Foods and Lunds and Byerly’s (multiple locations).
The first time Oprah Winfrey called, Kathy O’Hehir Johnson thought it was a prankster. But the second call convinced her and yielded the chocolatier of Just Truffles (1363 Grand Ave., St. Paul) an appearance on the Oprah's “Only The Best” segment. Here’s why Oprah noticed: Johnson tested 27 varieties of chocolate on a tasting panel before making her selection. Her 33 varieties are all handmade. For V-Day she’s making a special cranberry truffle to join perennial favorites like Just Chocolate (the name says it all); Tenor’s Temptation, the one Pavarotti favored for its combo of milk chocolate, Malibu rum and cream of coconut; and Hot Chocolate, a dark bonbon fired with habañero chiles from Mexico.
Salty Tart’s über-talented baker/proprietor, Michelle Gayer, also is going the truffle route in honor of the day. Her Midtown Global Market booth (920 E. Lake St., Minneapolis) will feature a blend of European and American chocolate encasing ginger; fleur de sel; a “dark, dark” caramel; and roasted pear embedded in ganache. She’s also baking white chocolate cupcakes decorated with candied rose petals and heart-shaped sandwich cookies.

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