Saffron gets the national attention it deserves
Alexa Jones
Caramelized winter vegetables with goat cheese, crispy parsnips, and black truffle vinaigrette
Just two months into 2010, Sameh Wadi’s year is proving to be a good one, where even his biggest failure is something to brag about. In January, he competed on Iron Chef America, honorably losing the mackerel battle to sushi master Masaharu Morimoto. A few weeks later, he was announced as a semifinalist for the James Beard Foundation’s Rising Star Chef of the Year award, drawing even more attention to the Middle Eastern and Mediterranean fare he creates at Saffron.
The space: Opened in 2007, the restaurant fits its Warehouse District surroundings with high ceilings and bare brick walls, but still manages to not feel cold or cavernous.
The drinks: In addition to a full bar, the drink menu offers several specialty cocktails, both with and without alcohol, many featuring hibiscus, serrano chilies, ginger beer, or orange blossom water.
The food: Dinner at Saffron is a full sensory experience that starts with tapas-sized plates: The salty grilled haloumi, a cheese that squeaks just a little when you bite into it, brings out the fruitiness of a tomato-saffron jam. A crispy phyllo pastry filled with stewed chicken and almonds is dusted with cinnamon, which offers more in scent than flavor. When it comes to entrées, the duck breast is particularly good, paired with a tart heaped with mahogany-colored caramelized onions, dates, and goat cheese. Save room for a crème brûlée so thick it keeps its shape without a ramekin, served with poached apricots, thyme ice cream, and a tart pomegranate syrup. An unusual combination, but when you get some of each in one bite, it makes perfect sense.
Mom, date, or pal?: Bring your broke friends in for the happy hour and late-night specials, when the “bar food” (kofta meatballs, mirqaz sausage tagine, lamb BLT) costs just $3.50. Parents and dates alike will be suitably impressed with dinner.
Economic impact: Dropping a c-note for two people is easily done, but you can cut down on costs by forgoing the small plates ($5-$12) in favor of the complimentary house-made hummus. Entrées run $18-$29, and the monthly tasting menu costs $35/person ($50 with wine pairings).
Vital stats: 123 Third St. N, 612-746-5533, saffronmpls.com. Full menu served Monday to Thursday, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. Happy hour Monday to Friday, 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. Late night Friday and Saturday, 11 p.m. to 1 a.m.
