Sen Yai Sen Lek
Khao Soi
Northeast Minneapolis' Central Avenue has a ways to go before it approaches the diversity and quality of ethnic eateries on Nicollet Avenue, but there have been some significant inroads over the past couple of years, including the expanding empire of Middle Eastern cuisine that is Holy Land Deli, and the engagingly elegant, community-minded Thai spot Sen Yai Sen Lek, opened just over a year ago by owners Joe and Holly Hatch-Surisook.
The name: It means "big noodle, little noodle," a nod to one of the menu's cornerstones along with sticky rice dishes and curry specials (which change daily).
Eat this: For a starter, you can't go wrong with the gai satay, chicken skewers served with a mild, sweet peanut-curry sauce. Do-it-yourselfers should spring for the lettuce wraps, which can be assembled to taste from a panoply of flavors including peanuts, dried shrimp, ginger, and lime. Entrées are designed to emulate the fare at Bangkok street stands. Standouts include the peak gai tod (tangy chicken wings and sticky rice) and khao pad kuri (a mildly spicy curry fired rice with pineapple and chicken). Most dishes can be prepared for vegetarian or vegan tastes.
Drink up: Local microbrews including Surly are on tap. There are also a few beers from Thailand on offer, including Singha and Chang.
Mom, date, or pal?: It's perhaps too low-key for a first date if swanky, dazzling decor is part of your seduction strategy, but it's a good choice for a casual meal once the Other has become Significant, or just to catch up on gossip with family or friends. Bright red, yellow, and blue walls lend a cheery but not brash feel, with photos of Thailand (on the south side) and Minnesota (on the north) visually bridging the cultures. The bar area is dominated by invitingly comfortable couches where a big group can relax—including, on a recent visit, a tattoo-covered bride in full regalia and her wedding party, apparently winding down after the reception.
Check, please: Most rice and noodle dishes are in the $10-$12 range, with the daily curry specials up to $16.
Vital stats: 2422 Central Ave. NE, 612-781-3046, senyai-senlek.com
