Trattoria Tosca
Stacy Schwartz
Restaurateur Harvey McLain knows how to make the most of a location. His cluster of adjacent eateries at 48th and Chicago includes beloved artisanal bakery Turtle Bread Company, Pizza Biga, and casually upscale Cafe Levain. Meanwhile, the corner space next to the Turtle Bread in Linden Hills, which he also owns, stood empty for more than half a decade while he bided his time, preparing the way for a promised new café. The stars are finally in alignment now with the opening of the Italian-themed Trattoria Tosca.
Stacy SchwartzIn the kitchen: Young chef Adam Vickerman (he’s only 24) already made a splash recently as top chef at Levain, and now has shifted to McLain's newer eatery to head up Tosca's Mediterranean-focused kitchen. He brings fresh experience to the table, having spent time in Tuscany soaking up Italian cooking lore.
Eat this: Vickerman’s a card-carrying locovore, so Kadejan Farm chicken, served with Riverbend Farms polenta and wild ramps, is a good bet on the four-item entrée list. Pastas come in both starter and entrée portions, highlighted by the delectably chewy gnocchi in brown butter and Grana Padano cheese. Among the starters, skip the super-salty mussels in favor of the trio of bruschette. On the dessert list, bypass the blah bread pudding in favor of the well-dressed plate showcasing a pair of Italian cheeses, enough to share.
Stacy SchwartzWine list: The well-edited list features bottles from Italy and Italian-thinking Californians, half of them under $30. Even better news for the keeper of the purse strings: The eminently drinkable house red and white go for $5 a glass, $19 a bottle.
Setting the stage: Sidewalk tables are at a premium in summer, but inside, those pulled up to the vast picture windows fare just as well. Come winter, the shadowy tunnel room behind them should fill up fast, too, with its decor more attuned to high-tech Milano than plastic grapes.
Stacy SchwartzMom, date, or pal? Romantic enough for date night, but if your "date" is your mom or sibling, feel right at home.
Check, please: Appetizers are in the $8 range, and are big enough to share. Pastas start around $10, with other entrées running $18-$28, and are generous enough to split if you’ve gone the carb route first.
Vital stats: Dinner only: 5-9 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 5-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Street parking is fairly easy to find. 3415 W. 44tth St., 612-924-1900, trattoriatosca.com.
