Victor's 1959 Cafe: It's not just for breakfast
Stacy Schwartz
In a pair of cities that don't want for great breakfast options, Victor's 1959 Café is a standout, but not for the size of its omelets or the wackiness of its ingredients. A breakfast at Victor's is a thing of beauty because of the simplicity of its Cuban comfort food. But if all you know of Victor's is the breakfast, you're missing out, because the funky little South Minneapolis shack also serves up some serious lunch and dinner options.
In the kitchen: Owner Niki Stavrou (who's actually Greek—she learned about Cuban cooking from her ex-husband) is celebrating Victor's 10th anniversary this year with chef and stepson Vic, and the restaurant's history spills out into the dining room, where patrons have been leaving their mark with Sharpies for years. Everything from self-promotion (rapper Franz Diego has tagged a booth) to advice ("Enjoy life," written next to a sketch of a wine bottle) to impromptu reviews in both English ("The mango juice is so tasty") and Spanish ("Que ricos huevos!") adorn the orange walls.
Eat this (for breakfast): You can't go wrong with the Dia y Noche, which consists of two eggs with black beans, rice, sweet plantains, and toast on the side. The black beans are always tender but never mushy, and the rice is absolutely perfect—sticky and creamy but firm. Douse the whole thing with the rich but not too spicy Spanish Creole sauce and you've got a crave-worthy breakfast. Just as good is the ranchero Cubana (corn tortillas topped with cheddar, eggs, Creole sauce, and black beans). On the sweet side, there are mango pancakes, a compelling blend of punchy fruit and rich batter. And no matter how bleary you are, don't settle for regular coffee—get the café con leche.
Eat this (for lunch and dinner): The sandwich Cubano is perfection, the salty ham and tender pork loin balanced expertly by the tang of pickles and mustard, all covered in melted Swiss and pressed inside a crispy roll. The plato vegetariano combines every delicious side—rice, black beans, yuca frita (Cuban french fries topped with a garlic and lime mojo sauce), and sweet plantains—into one satisfying meal. The bistec encebollado is another simple wonder, a lime-marinated strip steak seared perfectly and served with grilled onions and tostones (green plantains, a savory relative of the sweet ones).
Mom, date, or pal?: Just about anyone will feel at home at Victor's, but not everyone's going to fit. With only a dozen tables, the line gets long quick on weekends. So let your friends sleep till noon and come early with Mom, or wait until the evening to impress your date with this funky, earthy joint.
Economic impact: Breakfast for less than $10 is easily done, although a side of chorizo here and a fresh guava juice there can add up fast. Lunch is likewise pretty reasonable (the sandwich Cubano is $7.50—and you're likely to need a box for the second half), and dinner, while slightly pricier, is still peanuts compared to places with less flavor.
Vital stats: 3756 Grand Ave. S, 612-827-8948, victors1959cafe.com. Every day, open 8 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; Tuesday to Saturday, open 4:30 p.m. to 9 p.m. Breakfast happy hour (with $4 sake Bloody Marys and tropical mimosas) Monday to Friday, 8 a.m. to 10 a.m.; and evening happy hour Tuesday to Saturday, 4:30 p.m. to 6:30 p.m.
