The Skinny Victory 44: Waiters? Who needs waiters?

Victory 44’s approach to dining is actually forehead-slappingly simple: Why trot out minimum-wage wait staff members who care more about the episode of Project Runway they DVR’ed last night than the food they’re serving, when you can have the chefs themselves waiting the tables? Founder and head chef Erick Harcey talks about that decision on a video you can view right on the restaurant’s homepage: “You’re always going to get a really good definition of what you’re eating,” he says. “There’s a lot more passion from the cooks.”

The setup is actually a little disorienting at first. After parking in the restaurant’s lot (always a nice touch), you might enter through the back door and not know who you’re supposed to see about a table. Turns out it’s more or less catch-as-catch-can. When you’re finally greeted at your table, the server’s dishevelment is understandable since this is, after all, the guy who’s also making your food. Because of that, your meal might take a little longer than it might at other restaurants, but fortunately, Victory 44 isn’t a bad place to spend some time. The uncluttered, dim but warmly lit space feels more Wrigleyville than North Minneapolis, and the hand-written chalkboard menu changes at the chefs’ whim. (Click “menu” on the restaurant’s website and you’ll get an honest-to-God digital photo of that day’s offerings.) The simple, meat-emphasizing menu is paired with a robust selection of beers and wines. In short, Victory 44 does everything right, including its unique spin on service.

The food: The Devils On Horseback ($6) appetizer is not, as one diner guessed, deviled eggs served on horses’ hooves. Rather, it is something altogether more unusual: It’s dates wrapped in bacon and dressed with—no kidding—a bacon foam. The flavor simply explodes out of these little bites, with a salty, crisp outside cradling a gooier, sweeter middle. Despite their name, the bacon frites ($4) don’t have chunks of bacon on top of them, or anything as pedestrian as that. Instead, they’re cooked in bacon fat, which is every bit as delectable as it sounds.

For vegetarians, the agnolotti ($7) is great ravioli-like pasta that tastes like a decadent, adult version of macaroni and cheese. The menu varies, but options like scallops and chorizo, lamb loaf (basically a meatloaf of lamb with a hint of sausage spice), and the aptly named Perfect Burger ($10) will keep carnivores happy, and for good reason: All of the meat is butchered and cured on the premises. The aforementioned burger is of substantial but not overwhelming proportions, and topped with cheese and, yes, bacon. The portion size is actually one of the best things about the restaurant; the food is intense and richly flavorful, and the chefs are smart not to weigh your plate down with mammoth portions.

Economic impact: As far as dining goes, Victory 44 is a steal. Bottles of wine are moderately priced (around $25-$30, depending on selection) and almost all of the meal options cost $10 or less. Our group of four split two bottles of wine, an appetizer, and five entrees, and got out of there for less than $120 (and half of that was the wine).

The verdict: Victory 44 is a bit of an outlier, both in location and approach, but it’s more than worth the trip to sample its unique take on comfort food. As Harcey says, “For what we’re doing, and the product we deliver, and the price point we’re at, we can reach so many people. The dining in my past wasn’t accessible to everyone, but here you can get a five-course tasting for $30.” If you enjoy it enough, there’s even an option on the menu to buy the chefs a round of beer for $10. You might want to wait until after they’ve made your dinner, though.

Vital info: 2203 44th Ave. N, 612-588-2228, victory-44.com. Monday to Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.