It's that time of year again, when music obsessives and music-industry people whose obsession was beaten out of them gather in Austin for four days and nights of music saturation, a.k.a. South By Southwest Music. If you've never been, it's madness: Thousands descend on the streets to witness thousands of bands. Behind every door there's something going on from noon until, in some cases, sunrise. And everybody shows, from tiny indie labels playing showcases in dive bars, to huge names like R.E.M.–playing at Stubb's this year–and Lou Reed, who'll act as keynote speaker at the conference and participate in a tribute to himself.