By avoiding the Bourdain we know, Tony finds truth
Matt Johnson’s biopic explores what makes a man a chef.
Photo: A24
It’s easy to imagine how Anthony Bourdain—the chef-turned-writer who became a TV personality and part-time philosopher, who led audiences to far-flung corners of the world and seedy New York City kitchens alike—would have hated a palatable biopic about his wayward youth. Both in prose and on the air, he never went long without a scathing self-deprecating comment, some wry observation that cut to the bone of a universal experience. He may have played the captain in the kitchen, in his books, and on TV, but he was never beyond reproach, and his smoky voice of experience was the first to knock himself off a pedestal. This is why, almost a decade after his death, his legacy still looms large, and his presence is sorely missed by many who still share his sharp political and culinary critiques on social media. In trying to understand the man behind the opinionated wordsmith, Matt Johnson revisits Bourdain’s origin story and pays tribute to all those still finding their way through the world.
Long before Bourdain penned his first New Yorker essay, Tony (The Holdovers’ Dominic Sessa) was a floundering college student, a potent combination of cocky and too-smart with a disdain for authority. After lying about landing a writing fellowship, a chance encounter with a fellow classmate, Nancy (Emilia Jones), changes his destination from New York City to the sleepy fishing village of Provincetown to win her over. At first, he’s met with disappointment, then disaster, but it lands Tony on the doorstep of a local chef (Antonio Banderas) who gives the young jerk a lesson in humility and a second chance, inducting him into the kitchen brotherhood where he learns what it takes to run his own restaurant.