Interview With The Vampire's makeup is a cut above its Emmy competition

The centuries-spanning looks in AMC's gothic series demand attention.

Interview With The Vampire's makeup is a cut above its Emmy competition

AMC is all in on Anne Rice, with the forthcoming Talamasca, a new round of Mayfair Witches, and more Interview With The Vampire, which kickstarted the network’s Immortal Universe in 2022. The calamitous romance at its center, between Louis de Pointe du Lac (Jacob Anderson) and Lestat de Lioncourt (Sam Reid), has endured plenty of death and distance in two seasons already. The show weaves in centuries’ worth of history, events, and cultural developments via its makeup, among other things, depicting the passage of time for our protagonists who don’t age. These are integral tools to flesh out the world that Louis and Lestat move through together, apart, and with various loved ones. A core part of their existence has always been disguising the fact that they are immortal. So how they each present themselves while roaming the ebullient New Orleans streets in the 18th century, living in a high-rise Dubai apartment in 2022, or performing as part of a theater troupe in Paris at different times is an ambitious challenge. 

Thankfully, makeup designer Vincenzo Mastrantonio (best known for Thor: Ragnarok and genre fare like Penny Dreadful and Carnival Row) is up for the task along with makeup artists Daniele Nastasi, Adele Di Trani, and Charlene Williams. The team secured an Emmy nod this year for Outstanding Period or Fantasy/Sci-Fi Makeup (Non Prosthetic), one of two below-the-line nominations for the underrated series. (The other is for Outstanding Period or Fantasy/Sci-Fi Hairstyling.) The endeavor of portraying so many years of style evolution—from gothic and aristocratic to a ’40s French aesthetic and modern-day luxe—distinguishes IWTV from its competitors in the category, including HBO’s blonde-wig-heavy Game Of Thrones prequel, the fantastically costumed The Righteous Gemstones, Netflix’s true-crime saga about the Menendez brothers, and FX’s hilarious vampire offering

Particularly in its sophomore run, ITWV relies on a distinct theatrical visual style. Louis and Claudia (Delainey Hayles) shift base from NOLA to post-World War II Paris, hoping to begin anew in the French city and leave behind their toxic memories of Lestat, whom they falsely believe to be dead. It’s a failed attempt because their fresh start arrives in the form of a troupe he co-founded a long time ago called Théâtre des Vampires, whose specialty, as seen in episode two, is putting on a boisterous performance with projectors, with the vamps openly drinking blood from a preyed-upon human while those in the audience eat up the mania. Santiago (Ben Daniels) forms the pièce de résistance of this play. Mastrantonio gives him a pale-as-ash complexion to contrast the black striped suit and crimson cape, so when Santiago snarls, smiles, or sinks his teeth into a human, the effect is haunting.  

Then there is Claudia, enamored by Théâtre des Vampires to the extent that she plays a baby doll in a different play. Her makeup reflects a certain bubbliness—that bright-blue eyeshadow matches the ribbons in her hair, for example—that contrasts with Claudia’s frustration and desire to be seen as a grown, independent woman instead of a child. For a show like ITWV, whose vamps embrace opulence and spectacle, makeup becomes a transformative tool to express themselves. And what better place to do it than on a stage, as evidenced by, say, Lestat’s elevated presentation in episode three‘s flashbacks that unpack his time with Armand (Assad Zaman) and Théâtre des Vampires. 

All the looks in IWTV, no matter the time period, feel like an essential component of the spooky, surreal narrative. Much like the acting itself, the makeup aids the storytelling about the horrors and joys of being alive forever.  A decade or so ago, AMC was a magnet for Emmy Awards with Mad Men and Breaking Bad. The rise of streaming platforms like Apple TV+ and Netflix (along with the usual competitors) changed that. While it’s a shame that Interview With The Vampire hasn’t gotten any major above-the-line nods for its critically acclaimed season two, it would be a disservice to let its creative prowess go without this win.     

 
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