Beef review: Behold one of 2023's most exciting new TV shows

Netflix’s Beef pulsates with tension right from the get-go. The show opens with two strangers almost colliding in a retail store parking lot, which kicks off an intense car chase between contractor Danny Cho (Steven Yeun) and plant entrepreneur Amy Lau (Ali Wong) through the posh streets of Calabasas and sets the stage for a season-long game of cat and mouse. The idea of a road-rage incident gone wrong might sound limiting, but Beef transforms it into a thought-provoking and insidious character study. While it could’ve benefitted from a shorter run (with 10 half-hour episodes the series gets slightly cyclical), Beef is one of 2023’s most fascinating new shows.

Created by Lee Sung Jin, the dark comedy dives into the nitty-gritty of Danny and Amy’s personalities as they seek revenge. Their feud starts with silly revenge tactics (think bad Yelp reviews and peeing on the bathroom floor), but their satisfaction proves this beef has released some pent-up frustrations. So, of course, they escalate it to dangerous heights, infiltrating each other’s personal and professional lives with nail-biting execution. How far will they go? Who else will they involve? Will anyone find out what they’re doing? What’s their goal? These questions simmer throughout, and Beef dispenses answers engagingly and with subversive twists (you can expect the unexpected). In that sense, it’s a successful, anxiety-inducing thriller.

However, Beef’s endearing crux isn’t the suspense, which does keep you on the hook until the end. It’s the daring script elevated by flawless performances from both actors. Wong—a stand-up comedy star with movies like Always Be My Maybe under her belt—is a revelation in this dramatic, career-best role. Her presence commands the screen, especially once Amy grapples with her faux “happy marriage” with her husband, George (Joseph Lee). Wong is entirely riveting, particularly in episodes helmed by Jin or director Jake Schreier. They often zoom in on her face, like in episode seven’s crushing therapy scene, allowing Wong to effectively communicate Amy’s pain during a monologue.

Oscar nominee Yeun is enigmatic as Danny (think of him as a flipped-out version of Burning’s disquieting Ben). Here, the actor is often delirious and loud, but each time Beef puts him through the wringer—which happens pretty often—it still puts a dagger through your heart. Whether breaking down in a church, physically fighting with his sibling, or rage-driving across L.A., Yeun’s seething is always accompanied by sensitivity. The lead duo doesn’t share screen time often, but goddamn, Beef is electric whenever they do.