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The chaos of Deli Boys is also its charm

Poorna Jagannathan steals the show in Hulu’s darkly comedic thriller.

The chaos of Deli Boys is also its charm
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Hulu’s partnership with Onyx Collective, a brand created to champion BIPOC-focused narratives, has had an interesting run so far. It’s launched noteworthy scripted projects with talents like Kerry Washington and Natasha Rothwell, among others. Yet both actors’ respective (and good) TV comedies, Unprisoned and How To Die Alone, were canceled despite critical acclaim. This puts extra pressure on Onyx’s next endeavor, Deli Boys. Like any good sitcom, it needs some room to grow, although it has solid bones from the get-go. 

The instant hook is that, a few minutes into the premiere, two Pakistani-American brothers witness their dad die in a freak accident. They inherit his successful convenience-store chain only to learn he was using it as a front to smuggle drugs. Raj (Ms. Marvel’s Saagar Shaikh) and Mir (WandaVision’s Asif Ali) Dar are unexpectedly thrust into the dangerous mafia underworld. Usually, Muslim characters are relegated to one-dimensional villains or side players in these types of capers. Here, with South Asians behind and in front of the camera (including series creator/co-writer Abdullah Saeed), there are no stereotypes about accents, clothes, or traditions to adhere to. The 10-episode first season is full of hijinks and heart, centering on fully realized, flawed South Asian protagonists whose culture is seamlessly integrated into the mix. 

Raj and Mir have polar-opposite approaches to life as sons in a wealthy immigrant family. Raj is the lackadaisical pothead older brother, the kind to sport lots of bling, do nothing, and enjoy the fruits of everyone else’s labor—a position he thinks is rare for a brown person to be in. Meanwhile, Mir is the efficient younger child who can’t stop boasting about his Drexel degree and hopes to take over the company soon. He carries, as his brother puts it, “survivor’s guilt” about their parents’ sacrifice of moving to another country and try for the American dream. By presenting two sides of the same coin, Deli Boys offers a fascinating look at an experience many immigrant kids have. Raj and Mir are different and prone to quarrels, but this is no Kendall/Roman situation because they’ve always got each other’s backs.  

It’s a good thing they do because once the Dar brothers realize just how deeply Baba (Iqbal Theba) was involved in illegal activities, they’re forced to deal with the fallout in his absence. They’re absolutely unequipped to handle anything in this criminal world, whether it’s an FBI raid, rival mobs attacking them, or Baba’s inner circle fighting each other to become the new numero uno. But if the Dars want to maintain a life of luxury and avoid prison, they have no choice but to dump a few bodies and transport cocaine to an Indian restaurant. Thankfully, they’ve also got the coolest, chicest, baddest auntie to guide them through it.  

Lucky (Never Have I Ever’s Poorna Jagannathan in another scene-stealing performance) is their gun-toting savior. Baba’s closest confidante and the interim CEO, she takes the two men under her wing to teach them the basics: how to evade cops, where the drugs are hidden, and the best way to deliver them. She yells instructions at Raj and Mir, gets exasperated by their utter incompetence, and yet faithfully protects them because they’re like family. Jagannathan is exceptional here. She aces her comic timing and dialogue delivery, whether it’s cursing in Hindi, doling out menacing threats, or doing bouts of physical comedy. The few times Lucky’s maternal instincts kick in, she’s expressive and emotional with the boys. (Episode six, in particular, is a highlight in this regard.) And it’s worth tuning in just for her turn and kickass outfits. 

Shaikh and Ali are also very funny, but they can’t match their co-star during the show’s more dramatic beats. Their characters are dealing with grief, and their respective relationships are in trouble. Raj finds it hard to keep his new profession a secret from his empath girlfriend/shaman Prairie (Alfie Fuller). Mir, in the throes of wedding planning, is afraid his fiancée Bushra (Zainne Saleh) will dump him. The two actors are pulled in too many directions, but Shaikh and Ali wholeheartedly sell their brotherly camaraderie. Stuck in an impossible circumstance, they make it easy to root for Raj and Mir to get out of an ever-expanding mess. 

Speaking of mess, Deli Boys does struggle with suspense—and most notably with the lazily executed FBI subplot. A dogged Agent Mercer (Alexandra Ruddy) and her dopey boss (played by Tim Baltz) attempt to catch the Dars but keep failing for goofy reasons. As a result, more compelling arcs like a cabal of South Asian mafia bosses and an investigation into Baba’s death take a backseat. Even if Deli Boys doesn’t deliver on thrills, it’s a humorous delight when it focuses on Raj, Mir, and Lucky as a trio. Their ability to create and relish in chaos is enviable. And it makes Deli Boys feel like a trip to, well, a deli: You pretty much know what to expect—and even if that sandwich doesn’t exactly blow you away, it’s hard not to take another bite and just enjoy it.  

Deli Boys premieres March 6 on Hulu 

 
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